Iran - Andrew Burke [214]
Laleh Hotel ( 622 5048; www.yazdlalehhotel.com; opposite Abanbar Golshan, off Basij Ave; s/d US$70/95; ) Laleh is undoubtedly one of the most stunning of the restored homes, with 40 luxurious rooms set around three courtyards. It’s not, however, the best place to stay. Service, especially in the restaurant, is very one-star, and that’s before we even mention the food. Better value elsewhere.
Eating
Most of the traditional hotels use one of their courtyards as a restaurant. We’re listing some of the better options here, but rest assured that if you’re staying in a traditional hotel, food won’t be too far away. Yazd is famous for baghlava, which is similar but thicker than classic Turkish baklava, and pashmak, a solid type of fairy floss or cotton candy.
RESTAURANTS
Malek-o Tojjar ( 622 4060; www.malek-o-tojar.com; Panjeh-ali Bazar, off Qeyam St; meals IR35,000) The evocative surrounds and fine Iranian dishes here are complemented with several regional classics, including some delightful soups, bademjan and other vegetarian dishes. And it’s very reasonably priced considering the surrounds.
Marco Polo Restaurant ( 626 7783; off Masjed-e Jameh Ave; meals IR35,000-65,000) Set like a crown atop the Orient Hotel, this glass-sided restaurant serves up sumptuous views of the Masjed-e Jameh and surrounding blue-tiled domes and delicious Iranian food that’s fit for the setting. Ideal for a romantic dinner.
Silk Road Hotel Restaurant ( 625 2730; 5 Tal-e Khakestary Alley, off Masjed-e Jameh Ave; meals IR30,000-65,000) While the Iranian food here is very good, the delicious (if not super-hot) subcontinental curries are the most popular dishes among travellers who can’t face another kabab. Relaxed, social atmosphere.
Mozaffar Traditional Restaurant ( 622 7664; Khalf Bagh Alley, off Motahari Ave; meals IR35,000-60,000; noon-3pm & 6-11pm) A recent addition to the sonnati scene, the Mozaffar is set in and around a particularly large courtyard, with both private rooms and takhts. To the standard Iranian menu, add (brace yourself) pizza. Expected to open rooms by 2009.
Hammam-e Khan Restaurant (Chaykhaneh-ye San’ati; 627 0366; Meydan-e Khan Bazar, off Qeyam St; meals IR35,000-60,000; 11.30am-3.30pm & 7.30-11pm) Deep in the heart of the old city, this restored underground hammam is one of the original historic restorations in Yazd and deserves its ongoing popularity. The interior is all tranquil pools, arched ceilings and fine tilework, and the food is delicious (as long as it’s not too busy). Follow the signs from Qeyam St.
Pizza Gole Sorkh ( 725 7519; Jomhuri-ye Eslami Blvd; pizzas IR20,000-50,000; 6-11pm) After working for almost 30 years as a pizza chef in Australia, the owner returned home to open a modern, busy restaurant serving arguably the best pizzas in Iran and a range of Italian classics. His serve of Aussie slang is pretty good, too.
Baharestan Restaurant ( 622 5107; Beheshti Sq; meals IR25,000; 11.30am-5pm) Forget atmosphere and style, the Baharestan is about tasty staples at tasty prices; the khoresht is best.
QUICK EATS
Amiran Paludeh (Favardin St, off Beheshti Sq) This tiny place specialises in delicious paludeh, a type of sorbet made of rice flour, grated fruit and rose-water (IR1500 a bowl).
Yazd Traditional Cookie ( 525 3673; Jomhuri-ye Eslami Blvd; 8am-4pm) Sweet shop extraordinaire! A huge array of shirin (sweets) is made in front of you by a team of busy men who will happily let you taste a few offerings; the pistachio-flavoured loz-e peste is supreme!
Nemoner Sandwich (Imam Khomeini