Iran - Andrew Burke [218]
Karim Khan founded a royal district in the area of the Arg-e Karim Khan and commissioned many fine buildings, including what was the pre-eminent bazaar in Persia. After his death, however, things fell apart. The Qajars, longtime enemies, attacked and destroyed the city’s fortifications and by 1789 had moved the national capital – and the remains of Karim Khan – to Tehran.
Shiraz remained prosperous due to its position on the trade route to Bushehr, but this role was greatly diminished with the opening of the trans-Iranian railway in the 1930s. Much of the architectural inheritance of Shiraz, and especially the royal district of the Zands, was either neglected or destroyed as a result of irresponsible town planning under the Pahlavi dynasty. Lacking any great industrial, religious or strategic importance, Shiraz is now largely an administrative centre, though one famous for its universities.
Orientation
The main street of Shiraz is the wide, tree-lined Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd (shortened simply to Zand). This boulevard runs about as far east and west as you would want to go without leaving Shiraz. Most of the things to see, and nearly all the hotels, are on or within walking distance of Zand.
The old city or nearby is where you’ll spend most of your time. The city centre is Shohada Sq (still widely known as Shahrdari Sq), within walking distance of most hotels, the bazaar and the major mosques and shrines. To the north is the Khoshk River, and north of that the tombs of Hafez and Sa’di and the major gardens. To the west and northwest of town are the smarter residential areas and, on a hill, many university buildings. The airport and two major bus terminals are short taxi trips from the centre.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Aramagh-e Hafez Bookshop ( 9am-5pm) Wide range of Hafez books at tourist prices.
Persepolis Bookshop ( 233 8200; Rudaki St) Opposite the new Shahreraz Hotel, a good range of pictorials and postcards.
EMERGENCY
Shiraz is famous for its medical training so it’s a good place to get sick.
Dena Hospital ( 628 0411-18; www.denahospital.com; Dena Alley, Motahari Blvd) Best in Shiraz.
Dr Faqihi Hospital ( 235 1091; Zand Blvd) The most central hospital; public.
Tourist Police (Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd) Outside the Arg-e Karim Khan. There’s rarely anyone here outside peak season.
INTERNET ACCESS
You won’t need GPS technology to find one of Shiraz’s many coffeenets, which include the following:
Maral Coffeenet (Park Hotel Lane; per hr IR8000; 9am-1pm & 4-9pm)
Paytakht ( 222 7989; Sa’di St; per hr IR8000; 8.30am-2.30pm & 4.30-9pm Sat-Thu, 8.30am-2.30pm Fri) English-speaking and very helpful.
MONEY
The central branches of the major banks have foreign exchange facilities. However, the exchange offices along Zand are simple, safe and your best option.
Bank Melli (Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd) Next to the Arg-e Karim Khan. Exchange on 1st floor.
Zand Exchange ( 222 2854; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd; 8am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat-Thu) Good rates, no commission, fast, and longer hours.
POST
Main post office ( 726 9070; Modarres Blvd) On the road to the airport, for big items only.
Post office ( 224 1516; Hejrat St)
TELEPHONE
Local calls are free from public phones in Shiraz. For international calls:
Telephone office Park Hotel Lane ( 8am-9pm Sat-Thu); Hejrat St ( 8am-8pm Sat-Thu)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist information office ( 224 1985; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd; 8am-8pm) Outside the Arg-e Karim Khan. Helpful English-speaking staff will give you a free map and/or directions, and have useful brochures on individual sights.
TOURS
Travellers commonly hire a taxi or driver for trips to Persepolis or other attractions around Shiraz; Click here for details. Tours can also be arranged through almost every hotel.
Arash Sadeghzadeh ( 0917 317 1652; www.triptopersia.com) Young, enthusiastic, knowledgeable and highly organised guide