Iran - Andrew Burke [219]
Hossein Soltani ( 0917 713 1517; h-soltani-n@hotmail.com) Hossein works in the Shiraz Eram hotel and moonlights as a (safe) driver and fixer.
Kazem Salehi ( 0917 113 0858; ilovetourists@yahoo.com) Kazem is not a guide as such, but he’s a lovely guy and good fun. He works with Pars Tourist Agency or independently.
Morteza Mehrparvar ( 0917 314 6124) More driver than tour guide, Morteza has nonetheless been recommended by several readers who have used him across Iran.
Park Taxi Service ( 222 5544; Park Hotel Lane; 24hr) Long-running, reliable and recommended taxi service. Note that they’re drivers, not guides.
Pars Tourist Agency ( 222 3163; www.key2persia.com; Zand Blvd; 9am-9pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri) Pars runs probably the most diverse, well-organised, good-value and – best of all – enjoyable tours of any Iranian agency. The 100 options include: half-day group trips to Persepolis for US$8 per person, leaving daily at 8am; Pasargadae for US$50 per car; also Firuz Abad, Bishapur, Bavanat, skiing, trekking, climbing and nomad tours. All prices are fixed and listed online. They also rent bikes (US$1 per hour) and on Friday take a bus full of interested Iranians for walking and a picnic lunch (US$10)… it’s a great way to meet the locals. Guides cost about US$25 a day, or US$50 a day for overnight trips; several languages can be arranged.
TRAVEL AGENCIES
Pars Tourist Agency ( 222 3163; www.key2persia.com; Zand Blvd; 9am-9pm Sat-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri; ) As well as tours, the multilingual team do the usual travel agency jobs: air, bus and train ticketing, visa extensions etc. In the event of an emergency, owner Masoud Nematollahi can be contacted to help sort things on 0917 111 8514. Highly recommended.
VISA EXTENSIONS
Police Department of Aliens Affairs (off Valiasr Sq; 7.30am-1.30pm Sat-Wed, 7.30am-noon Thu) When we were here, Shiraz was the best place in Iran for visa extensions. Arrive before 9am and you should be able to pick up a 30-day extension the same day. To get there, take a shuttle taxi (about IR1000) east along Zand Blvd to Valiasr Sq, walk another 300m or so east, then take the third lane heading north at an angle. It’s another 70m along, behind the light green door – it’s on the 3rd floor. Your cash must be deposited at Bank Melli Markazi (Shohada Sq); ask Pars Tourist Agency (left) for the account number and deposit before going for the extension to save doubling back. For more on extending visas, see More Time, Please.
Sights
Arg-e Karim Khan
Dominating the city centre, the burly Arg-e Karim Khan (Citadel of Karim Khan; 224 7646; Shohada Sq; admission IR2000; 8am-sunset, to 8pm summer) was built in the early Zand period and formed part of the royal court that Karim Khan had hoped would develop to rival Esfahan. The exterior is fairly mundane, with high walls punctuated by four 14m-high circular towers. The southeastern tower has a noticeable lean, having subsided onto the underground sewerage system that served as the Arg’s bathhouse.
Inside the Arg is a large, open courtyard filled with citrus trees and a pool. More interesting are the exhibition of photos taken in Shiraz in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, starting inside the north wall, and the museum of the Zand period, with wax figures in traditional dress. These recent additions mean you might now agree with the sign at the entrance, which has for years been proclaiming: ‘The exalted stature of the Karim Khan citadel amuses every new traveller for a long time who arrives in Shiraz’.
Bagh-e Nazar & Pars Museum
Bagh-e Nazar (Eye-catching Garden; Zand Blvd) and the octagonal Pars Museum at its centre are other notable Zand-era additions. It’s possible to walk around the garden and view the delightfully decorated pavilion where Karim Khan received foreign dignitaries. The interior is stunning, with the stalactite ceiling a particular highlight. Exhibits include Karim Khan Zand’s sword and indeed, his grave. Photography is not allowed.
Masjed-e Vakil
The beautiful Masjed-e Vakil (Vakil Mosque; admission IR3000;