Iran - Andrew Burke [222]
CHURCHES
The Anglican Church of St Simon the Zealot (Kelisa-ye Moqaddas-e Sham’un-e Ghayur; ), built by R Norman Sharp in 1938, is very Iranian in character and even contains stone tablets with biblical stories incised on them in cuneiform, probably by Sharp. According to local tradition, St Simon was martyred in Persia together with St Thaddeus, another of the 12 Apostles. The great metal door bearing a Persian cross is usually closed – ring the doorbell.
The 17th-century Armenian Church (Kelisa-ye Aramani; ; Nohahar Alley, off Qa’ani St), is famous for its frescoes and flat, painted ceiling. However, knocking might not be enough to get you in.
Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze
The Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze ( 222 3353; Hafez St, near Hamzeh Bridge; dawn-dusk) stands as the tomb of Emir Ali, a nephew of Shah Cheragh who also died here while en route to Khorasan to help Imam Reza. The existing shrine was built in the 19th century after earthquakes destroyed previous incarnations. It has an eye-catching bulbous Shirazi dome, dazzling mirror work, stained-glass windows and an intricate, ancient wooden door. The tombstones around the courtyard, for which families of the deceased paid a small fortune, are also interesting. Unlike some other shrines, the caretakers here are very welcoming of foreigners; women are happily handed a chador, and in you go!
Aramgah-e Hafez
Iranians have a saying that every home must have two things: first the Quran, then Hafez (Click here). And many would reverse that order. Hafez the poet is an Iranian folk-hero – loved, revered and as popular as many a modern pop star. Almost every Iranian can quote his work, bending it to whichever social or political persuasion they subscribe to. And there is no better place to try to understand Hafez’s eternal hold on Iran than here, at Aramgah-e Hafez (Tomb of Hafez; 228 4552; Golestan Blvd; admission IR3000; 8am-10pm), his tomb.
Set in a charming garden with its two pools, the whole scene is restful despite the ever-present traffic noise. The marble tombstone, engraved with a long verse from the poet, was placed here, inside a small shrine, by Karim Khan in 1773. In 1935, an octagonal pavilion was put up over it, supported by eight stone columns beneath a tiled dome. Plan to spend a couple of hours sitting in a discreet corner of the grounds, at sunset if possible, to watch the way Iranians react to what is, for many, a pilgrimage to his tomb.
You might see people performing the faal-e Hafez, a popular ritual in which you seek insight into your future by opening a volume of Hafez – the future is apparent in his words. After sunset, with the tomb floodlit and sung poetry piped over the public address system, it is difficult not to feel transported back to the magic of ancient Persia. The charming teahouse in the walled garden at the back of the grounds was closed when we passed, but should be open by the time you arrive.
To get here from the centre of town you can walk (about 2km); take a shuttle taxi from Shohada Sq to Ghaem Sq, then walk; or take a private taxi (about IR7000).
Aramgah-e Sa’di
While not as popular as Hafez’s tomb, the Aramgah-e Sa’di (Tomb of Sa’di; 730 1300; Bustan Blvd; admission IR3000; 7.30am-9pm, to 10pm summer) and its generous surrounding gardens are appropriate for a man who wrote so extensively about gardens and roses. It’s a tranquil place, with the tombstone housed in an open-sided stone colonnade, inscribed with various verses from Sa’di and supporting a tiled dome (Click here for more on Sa’di). Nearby is an underground teahouse Click here set around a fish pond that is fed by a qanat.
It’s easy to visit the tombs of both Hafez and Sa’di in a single afternoon. From Golestan Blvd (outside Hafez’s tomb), take a shuttle taxi three squares southwest (IR1000) to Sa’di Sq, then walk about 800m uphill to the tomb. Food and drink is available near the entrance.
Bagh-e Eram
Famous for its tall cypress trees, the delightful Bagh-e Eram (Garden of Paradise; 627 3647; Eram Blvd; admission