Iran - Andrew Burke [223]
BAGH-E JAHAN NAMA
After being closed for years, the lovely Bagh-e Jahan Nama (Jahan Nama Garden; Hafez St; admission IR1500; 8am-noon & 2-5pm, to 7pm summer) was reopened in 2005. It doesn’t have the reputation of Bagh-e Eram, but if you just want to hang out in the greenery, don’t want to spend IR30,000 for the privilege and want it to be within walking distance of your hotel, come on down.
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VOICES OF IRAN: MAJID PIROOZMAND
Age: 28
Lives in: Shiraz
Occupation: Architect, consultant to Miras Feranghi (Cultural Heritage Organisation)
‘I like Shiraz more than anywhere in the world. My childhood was here in these kuches (lanes) and the city has a very rich history. Until now it still doesn’t have the terrible traffic you have in other cities, people are especially friendly and the weather is perfect – not too hot and not too cold.
I work with Miras Ferhangi and we want to preserve the cultural heritage. Now Shiraz is ready to grow and advance, but we are still working to preserve the history. There are many threats; we have to pay attention to every detail and if a plan threatens the heritage, we reject it. To keep the old city alive we have programs to help the old places pay for themselves. The traditional hotels in Yazd are a good example, and we know how important tourism is in making this endeavour a success. When tourists spend money in historic buildings it helps to keep that building alive, and that’s important. In Shiraz, I love the gardens the most. We have some of the most famous gardens in Iran. Shirazis specialise in going out and we love to go out on the weekend, find some spare grass and sit, especially in summer.
The gardens are important for another reason, too. Usually, a girlfriend and boyfriend have a problem because they want to go somewhere to enjoy themselves – nothing illegal, just to be together – but there is nowhere to go. The garden is a great place for this, much better than restaurants or cafés. I used to go with my girlfriend and now we are married we still go.
I love to travel and with my work I travel about one week every two months, to Esfahan, Yazd, Kashan, Kerman, Mahan or Bam. Maybe it’s because I’m an architect, but Kashan is my favourite; I love the old houses and Madraseh-ye Khan.
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Darvazeh-ye Quran
At the northern and main entrance to Shiraz is a ravine known as the Allah Akbar Gorge because people would praise Allah when they looked from here down to Shiraz below. This is also home to the Darvazeh-ye Quran (Quran Gateway; Quran Sq), a modern and not desperately impressive structure built in 1949 to replace two earlier gateways. The gateway holds a Quran and travellers have traditionally passed underneath it before undertaking any journey. The fine original Quran, installed during the Zand period, was stolen from the Pars Museum in 2003.
Those with good leg muscles might want to climb up Mt Baba Kuhi in search of two more tombs and some bas-reliefs, from where the views of Shiraz are breathtaking. There are three teahouses here that are popular with young people hanging, especially at sunset. To get here, take a shuttle taxi to Quran Sq or walk up from either the Aramgah-e Hafez (opposite) or the Bagh-e Jahan Nama (opposite).
Sleeping
Shiraz has probably the best range of hotels, in the most confined space, of all Iranian cities. Unless otherwise stated, they are located in streets leading off Zand Ave and are a short walk to the main sights. They tend to be clustered by price range, making comparisons a breeze. The main downside