Iran - Andrew Burke [224]
BUDGET
The cheapest places are mainly concentrated in neighbouring Dehnadi and Pirouzi Sts; a couple of better budget options are on Anvari St.
Mehmunsara Fadagh ( 222 5135; Kuche Mohandase; dm/tw IR20,000/60,000) Deep in the old city, this mehmunsara in a 200-year-old building is the cheapest, most interesting hotel in town; note we didn’t say atmospheric. It’s owned by the Sepah militia and mainly used by male pilgrims (not great for solo women), who like the enormous dorm. But the small, clean twins are good value and the courtyard, with its underground teahouse (open 8am to 8pm), is good for chilling. There’s no sign in English and it’s hard to find; walk past the Imamzadeh Bibi Dokhtar, turn right and follow the signs to the Meshkinfam Museum of Art – it’s about 15m before the museum.
Zand Hotel ( 222 2949; alvanch@yahoo.com; Dehnadi St; tw with/without shower IR100,000/80,000; ) Zand has ultra-basic, reasonably clean rooms with or without showers (toilets are shared). It’s popular with overlanders because it has (limited) courtyard parking, a kitchen for guests and a free washing machine.
Esteghlal Hotel ( 222 7728; Dehnadi St; tw with/without bathroom IR140,000/115,000; ) Opposite the Zand Hotel, the Esteghlal has long been popular with budgeteers but not, it must be said, for the quality of the small, boxy rooms. They’re adequate, but note that while all rooms with ‘bathrooms’ cost the same, some don’t have a toilet – look at several. English-speaking manager Reza can advise on transport and flogs the usual day trips.
Anvari Hotel ( 233 7591; Anvari St; tw IR160,000; ) There’s nothing fancy about the modest, four-storey Anvari, but almost all like the place. It’s clean, comfortable enough for the money and, most importantly, has a consistently convivial atmosphere. Ideal for solo women travellers and the place you’re most likely to meet other travellers.
Sasan Hotel ( 233 7830; sasanhotel@shirazsport.com; Anvari St; s/d/tr US$15/20/24; ) Next door to the Anvari, Sasan has slightly better rooms, with softer beds and more furniture, for slightly more money. The manager is a friendly old guy who could, as one reader reported, talk ‘all four legs’ off a billiard table. Good upper budget choice.
If the other places are full, no-frills hotels line noisy Piruzi St (ask for a back room):
Saadi Hotel ( 222 5126; s/tw/tr IR70,000/110,000/130,000) Boxy, noisy but clean rooms and shared bathrooms, lumpy beds.
Hotel Sina ( 222 5665; Piruzi St; tw with/without bathroom IR180,000/150,000; ) Good beds, fridge and squat toilets; clean relatively large rooms.
MIDRANGE
Rudaki Ave and the adjoining Eizedi St are the places to look for midrange options. Rates include breakfast and, at most, bargaining is worthwhile.
Shiraz Eram Hotel ( 230 0814-16; www.eramhotel.com; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd; s/d US$45/55; ) For years we’ve been getting letters and emails complimenting the Eram’s relaxed but professional service, and it’s the guys at reception who set the tone. Rooms in the new wing (specify them) are big, quiet and reasonably well-equipped with phone, minibar and satellite TV. Buffet breakfast in the Sarve Naz Restaurant (meals IR35,000 to IR70,000; open breakfast, lunch and dinner) is refreshingly varied, and the mains here are also good. In short, the Eram is comfortable, dependable, friendly, central and good value – and has embraced some energy-saving measures.
Aryo Barzan Hotel ( 224 7182-4; www.aryohotel.com; Rudaki Ave; s/d/ste US$45/65/97; ) The Aryo is a favourite among readers for its intelligent, smiling and extravagantly coiffed service, fair prices and modern rooms. The small but tastefully furnished rooms are set around an atrium and have correspondingly