Iran - Andrew Burke [225]
Park Saadi Hotel ( 227 4901-19; parksaadi_hotel@yahoo.com; Hafez St, s/d/ste/apt US$45/65/110/150; ) The Saadi’s 52 newly refurbished rooms are in a quiet location opposite lovely Bagh-e Jahan Nama. It’s solid three-star through and through, with large, bright rooms (some with wi-fi), a decent restaurant and experienced management.
Jaam-e-Jam Apartment Hotel ( 230 4002; www.jaamejamhotel.com; Eizedi St; 1-/2-bed apt from US$60; ) Choose between the sprawling apartments in the four-year-old ‘old’ wing and smaller rooms in the Persepolis-inspired new wing, opened in 2007. The location is quiet, and management and service are professional. Be nice and a big discount might come your way; we were offered an apartment for US$40. Great value.
Persepolis Hotel ( 229 5370-73; www.persepolishotel.com; Azadi Blvd, off Ghaem Sq; s/d US$65/95; ) Opened in 2006, this has modern-looking and well-equipped, if not huge, rooms. Service is enthusiastic and the pool can be ‘booked’ after 11pm. Discounts are available; if not, try Aryo Barzan first.
If those are full:
Kowsar Hotel ( 230 0207; kowsarhotel@yahoo.com; Zand Blvd; s/d US$27/40; ) Old but reasonable value. Discounts are possible.
Parsian Hotel ( 233 0000; www.parsian-hotel.com; Rudaki Ave; r/ste US$66/100; ) Compact rooms, good beds, decent service.
TOP END
Hadish Apartment Hotel ( 235 1988; www.hadishhotel.com; Rudaki Ave; 1/2-bed apt US$100/150; ) The big apartments here are a bit austere but have fully equipped kitchens. They’re most appealing for the value and friendly staff, who at most times are happy to discount (rates were halved after about 10 seconds’ bargaining).
Pars International Hotel ( 233 2255; www.pars-international-hotel.com; Zand Blvd; s/d/ste with breakfast US$81/117/186; ) This four-star business hotel is probably the best in town. Rooms are well equipped (though there’s no internet; it’s only available in the lobby) and those upper floors offer panoramic views.
Homa Hotel ( 222 8000-09; www.homahotelgroup.com; Meshkin Fam St; s/d/ste with breakfast US$90/120/175; ) The ’70s-era Homa is showing its age and the rooms – and indeed some of the staff – look tired. But the location, restaurants, front-desk service and views over the city, and Park-e Azadi in particular, make it a decent choice. The pool is men-only.
Eating
Shiraz is noted as a culinary capital but Shirazis have embraced Western-style fast food with an almost embarrassing relish. We’ve listed the best places and will mostly leave you to find the pizza and burger joints on your own. Sadly the world-famous Shiraz (Syrah) grape is no longer made into the wine that inspired Hafez to poetry.
RESTAURANTS
There are some excellent Iranian restaurants.
Gavara Restaurant ( 222 7211; Piruzi St; meals IR20,000-40,000; 11am-10pm) The subterranean Gavara is an old-style local – an unpretentious, neon-lit hall divided into sections for men, and women and families. The menu is big and the food unsophisticated but very tasty; kababs, khoreshts, fish (sometimes) and a decent ghorme sabzi. Look for the Achaemenid-style staircase beneath the Saadi Hotel.
Haji Baba Restaurant ( 233 2563; Zand Blvd; meals IR25,000-50,000; 7am-11pm) Not exactly atmospheric, but the food is delicious, location and opening hours convenient and prices reasonable.
Yavar Restaurant ( 228 7728; Ghaem Sq; meals IR30,000; 11.30am-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm) For traditional Shirazi food, local prices and character, the Yavar is excellent. The eslamboli (rice and tomato) and khoresht bademjan (eggplant stew) make a refreshing alternative to kababs (which it also has). There’s no English sign; look for Hossein riding a white horse across the front wall.
Restaurant Hatam ( 222 1709; Piruzi St; meals IR35,000; 11am-9pm Sat-Thu) No frills, soulless cheapie with a limited range of decent Iranian food.
Yord Cultural Complex ( 625 6774, 0917 715 2059; Mansour Abad, Dinakan St, after Maliabad bridge; meals IR55,000; lunch & dinner,