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By Root 1614 0

dinner only in winter) In an enormous colourful yord (tent) about 8km northwest of town, this complex not only offers the chance to enjoy some fine Iranian-nomad food, but also to experience the Qashqa’i culture. The warm atmosphere, colourful costumes, live music and delicious food afford a dreamy escape from modern life into a Qashqa’i tented embrace. Yord is almost impossible to reach by public transport, so ask your hotel to write the name in Farsi and get a taxi (about IR25,000); it is also worth paying the taxi to wait for you (about IR70,000 total) as taxis out here are rare indeed. We heard a second Yord has opened, and that both are periodically closed because of licensing issues, so always call ahead and get the address sorted.

Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant ( 224 1963; Vakil St, off Zand Ave; meals IR65,000; 11am-3pm & 8-11pm) Talk about atmosphere! The night we ate at the Sharzeh it was going off like the proverbial frog in a sock, with diners singing and clapping along with musicians playing traditional music in the centre of the two-level space. Great fun! The Iranian food was well-prepared, tasty and plentiful. It’s diagonally opposite the entrance to the Vakil Bazaar. There’s no English sign; look for the man in costume outside an arcade.

Shater Abbas Restaurant 1 ( 229 1440; Khakshenasi St, off Azadi Blvd; meals IR80,000; 11am-4pm & 6-11.30pm) The low light, open kitchen, bustling staff and modern design touches create an atmosphere that is hugely popular with middle-class Shirazis. The menu mixes the classic range of kababs with some less familiar dishes – turkey kabab and mushroom steak, for example. Prices seem to have climbed with demand, sharply. Look for the flame torches outside.

Other recommendations:

Soofi Traditional Restaurant 2 ( 626 1573; Afif Abad St; meals IR50,000-80,000; noon-3.15pm & 7-11.15pm) Beside the Setareh Fars shopping centre; popular with young, wealthy Shirazis; live music at night.

Pat Traditional Restaurant ( 235 4186; Paramount Cross; meals IR55,000; lunch & dinner) Subterranean, traditional place with live music.

QUICK EATS

Shiraz might just be the pizza capital of the world. Dozens of new pizza joints have opened here serving the usual array of thick-crusted, tomato-less pies topped with too much tasteless sausage. Zand is packed with places selling pizzas, burgers, hot dogs, saucis (sausage) sandwiches, soft-serve ice cream and other such delicacies.

110 Hamburgers (Anvari St; meals IR25,000; 11am-midnight) The best, however, is this place to which Shirazis come like moths to a neon flame (two glowing palm trees). Their version of the shwarma, with meat sliced off a spit and shovelled into a bread roll with healthy bits like tomato and pickle (IR18,000), is good.

Mahdi Faludeh (Naser Khosrow St; 2-10pm) The most famous faludeh (IR3000 a cup) shop in Shiraz that does a good line in bastani, too. It’s opposite the Arg and beside the mosque entrance.

TEAHOUSES & CAFÉS

There are some cracking teahouses in Shiraz, and a few decent cafés too. Unfortunately, the historic and popular Hammam-e Vakil has closed as a teahouse.

Aroosh Khorshid (Dehnadi St; meals IR25,000-45,000; 8am-10pm Sat-Thu) Convenient to the cheap accommodation, the Aroosh has plenty of old paraphernalia hanging about and the big space can have a decent atmosphere when it’s busy. The food is decent if unadventurous; check the bill carefully.

Seray-e Mehr Teahouse ( 222 9572; Seray-e Mehr, Bazar-e Vakil; meals IR35,000-50,000; 9am-9pm Sat-Thu) This is a serendipitous place to find after wandering through the Bazar-e Vakil. Hidden away through a small door behind the Serai Mushir Bazar, the split-level teahouse has a small menu of tasty favourites (think dizi, kubideh, zereshk polo) and a delightfully relaxed atmosphere in which to sit, sip tea and puff on qalyan.

Khajo Teahouse (Darvazeh-ye Quran; 11am-10pm) One of three little places selling tea and qalyan on the side of the rocky slope above the Quran Gate. Panoramic city views at sunset.

Aramgah-e Hafez Teahouse ( 228 4552; Golestan Blvd)