Iran - Andrew Burke [227]
Sa’adi Teahouse ( 727 2300; Aramgah-e Sa’di) This subterranean chaykhaneh isn’t quite as atmospheric as the Hafez version, but it’s still plenty of fun.
Shopping
Good buys in the Bazar-e Vakil include metalwork and printed cottons, especially tablecloths and rugs woven by Fars nomads. Shiraz can be a good place to buy kilims and gabbehs (traditional rugs), though the selection is not as great as in Esfahan. For handicrafts, head to Serai Mushir in the Bazar-e Vakil, where you’ll find some excellent shops and a great atmosphere. For a taste of modern Iran, head for the Setareh Fars Commercial Mall, a shopping mall (lots of labels), games complex (10-pin bowling IR40,000 a game!) and top-floor food court (Mexican and Chinese, open 4pm to midnight) where the young and hip hang out. Come in the evening for a taste of modern, consumer Iran.
Getting There & Away
AIR
It’s easy to start or finish a trip to Iran in Shiraz because several airlines operate between Shiraz and gulf cities. Iran Aseman ( 230 8841; Zand Blvd; 8am-8pm Sat-Thu) flies between Shiraz and Dubai (one way IR820,000, daily) and Kuwait (IR882,000, daily), while other Gulf cities are served by Gulf Air (Bahrain) and Iran Air (Bahrain, Doha).
Shiraz International Airport ( 722 5020; http://shirazairport.ir) has a handy flight information number ( 199; 8am-9pm) and a hotel booking counter offering hefty discounts.
Iran Air ( 233 0041; cnr Zand Blvd & Felestin St; 8am-3.30pm) flies the following domestic routes.
Iran Aseman, Mahan Air, Kish Airlines and other domestic carriers serve a mix of the same destinations, for the same prices; see a travel agency Click here for tickets.
BUS & MINIBUS
Most long-distance buses operate from busy Carandish bus terminal (Terminal-e Bozorg; Salman-e Farsi Blvd). Prices are for mahmooly/Volvo buses (or just Volvo), and the main (but usually not the only) departure times are noted.
If you’re on a tight schedule it’s worth booking ahead at the Iran Peyma (Taavoni 1; 222 3888; Zand Blvd; 7am-8pm Sat-Thu, 8am-noon Fri) office near the corner of Sa’di St, or nearby Pars Tourist Agency.
Buses to towns west and southwest of Shiraz leave from Amir Kabir Terminal on the southern outskirts. Buses for Kazerun (IR10,000, two to three hours) and Bushehr (IR13,000/30,000, five hours) depart at least every hour; arriving from Bushehr, you’ll probably be dropped here.
SAVARI
Savaris for regional towns such as Bishapur, Firuz Abad and Marvdasht (for Persepolis) go from the southern edge of Carandish Terminal, near the river, on a semiregular basis.
Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
A private taxi to or from the city centre should cost about IR15,000. Ask at the airport information desk if the public bus has resumed, and if it runs all the way into town.
METRO
The Shiraz Urban Railway (www.shirazmetro.ir) is being built and will eventually include three lines, with 40 stations on 47km of track, including a link to the new Esfahan–Shiraz mainline station. Line 1 will open in 2010 at the earliest, and will run from southeast to northwest, including a stretch along Zand Ave between Valiasr Sq (good for visa extensions) and Imam Hossein Sq.
TAXI
Shiraz’s fleet of old, green-and-white Paykan taxis, known locally as mas’ khiyari (yogurt cucumber) is slowly being phased out in favour of shiny yellow Prides. Shuttle taxis ply the streets for IR1000 to IR2000 per trip. Chartering starts at IR5000.
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PERSEPOLIS
0728 / elev 1630m
Magnificent Persepolis (Takht-e Jamshid; admission IR5000; 7.30am-5pm Nov-Mar, 8am-6pm summer) embodies the greatest successes of the ancient Achaemenid Empire…and its final demise (see History, Click here). The monumental staircases, exquisite reliefs and imposing gateways leave you