Iran - Andrew Burke [228]
This multicultural concoction is alone in the ancient world, and while largely ruined it remains the greatest surviving masterpiece of the ancient Near Eastern civilisations. Respected scholar Arthur Upham Pope ably summed up the philosophy behind Persepolis in Introducing Persian Architecture (published by Tuttle in 1982):
Humane sentiments found expression in the nobility and sheer beauty of the building: more rational and gracious than the work of the Assyrians or Hittites, more lucid and humane than that of the Egyptians. The beauty of Persepolis is not the accidental counterpart of mere size and costly display; it is the result of beauty being specifically recognised as sovereign value.
Some historians believe the site of Persepolis was chosen by Cambyses II, son of Cyrus the Great, but work did not begin until after Darius I (the Great) took the throne in 518 BC. It was added to by a host of subsequent kings, including Xerxes I and II, and Artaxerxes I, II and III, over a period of more than 150 years.
The ruins you see today are a mere shadow of Persepolis’ former glory. But their very existence is due in part to the fact the ancient city was lost for centuries, totally covered by dust and sand. It wasn’t until the 1930s that extensive excavations revealed its glories once again.
Note that there is little shade at Persepolis and from May until early October it can be sweltering, so bring a hat and water. For computer illustrations of Persepolis in all its glory, see www.persepolis3D.com.
Tours
Just about every hotel in Shiraz organises ‘tours’, with prices proportional to room rates; be sure about whether you’ll have an actual guide who speaks your language (more expensive) or just a driver. For a list of reputable tour guides, Click here.
Many travellers opt for an English-speaking driver to ferry them around for a half or full day. The driver usually won’t enter the site with you, so you’ll have to rely on this book, or if you’re lucky, a brochure from Persepolis. To Persepolis, Naqsh-e Rostam and Naqsh-e Rajab, it usually costs from about IR200,000 to IR250,000, while the full day to Pasargadae costs IR300,000 to IR350,000. For the best of these drivers, see our list Click here.
The Persepolis Complex
The following descriptions are set out like a walking tour in the order suggested on the map. This route is different to that taken by many guides, meaning you can avoid the throngs.
ENTERING THE CITY
As it always has been, entry to Persepolis is via the monumental Grand Stairway (2) at the northwest corner of the site. The stairs were carved from massive blocks of stone, but each step was shallow so Persians in long elegant robes could walk gracefully up into the palace.
Whenever important foreign delegations arrived, their presence was heralded by trumpeters at the top of the staircase; fragments of one of these bronze trumpets are on display in the museum. Acolytes then led the dignitaries through Xerxes’ Gateway (3; also known as the Gate of All Nations), which is still a wonderfully impressive monument.
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PERSEPOLIS UNDER THE ACHAEMENIANS
In its heyday Persepolis spread over about 125,000 sq metres and was one of four cities at the heart of an empire that spread from the Indus River to Ethiopia. Its original name was Parsa and the first known reference to it by its Greek name of Persepolis – meaning both City of Parsa (City of Persia) and Destroyer of Cities – came after its sacking by Alexander the Great’s army in 330 BC. Oddly, however, Persepolis is rarely mentioned by any name in foreign records, fuelling speculation among some archaeologists that the existence of the city was kept a secret