Iran - Andrew Burke [239]
Kish is booming. Hotels, shopping centres and theme parks are emerging from the sand to cater to migrant workers on ‘change visa’ runs and more than one million Iranians a year. But for foreigners, used to swimming and sunbathing with their partners and with no interest in duty-free DVD players, the appeal isn’t so great. And it’s expensive.
However, there are reasons to visit Kish. The resort water-sports make a pleasant diversion, there are a few ancient sights and cycling around the island on the coastal bike path is fun. More than anything else, though, it’s the relaxed atmosphere that appeals to Iranians, many of whom treat the island as something of a mental-health break – it’s not a bad approach.
Arriving after 2009 you should see the distinctive tower of the Flower of the East Hotel (www.floweroftheeast.com), part of an enormous resort being built on Kish’s northeast corner; and the 500-room Cyrus Hotel, said to be both ‘seven-star’ and the world’s first fully solar-powered hotel.
History
Kish Island is first recorded in the memoirs of Nearchus, the Greek sailor commissioned by Alexander the Great to explore the Persian Gulf in 325 BC. In the Middle Ages Kish became an important trading centre under its own powerful Arab dynasty and at one time supported a population of 40,000. The main town was Harireh, which is believed to be the town referred to by poet Sa’di in his famous work, Golestan (Rose Garden).
Kish was known for the quality of its pearls; when Marco Polo was visiting the imperial court in China, he remarked on the beauty of the pearls worn by one of the emperor’s wives and was told they had come from Kish. In the 14th century Kish fell into decline and remained obscure until the 1970s, when it was developed as a semi-private retreat for the shah and his guests – complete with international airport, luxury hotels and even a grand casino.
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GULF TIME
Most of the Persian Gulf coastline is hotter than Hades between about mid-April and late October and, not surprisingly, life adjusts accordingly. No-one wants to work in the scorching early-afternoon heat so you’ll find most businesses start early and then shut up shop from about noon to 5pm – including air-conditioned coffeenets (internet cafés) and shopping malls. Air-conditioned government offices work regular hours, and transport still operates, though less frequently. The best part of the day is invariably the evening, when temperatures drop and everyone sits outside drinking tea and thanking Allah for sea breezes.
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Orientation
Kish is 15km long, 8km wide and rises just 45m at its highest point. You’ll find many of the offices, banks, shops and hotels between Sanaee and Siri Sqs along the eastern coast, which also has the best beaches. Most residents live in this area or in the Arab settlements of Saffein, on the northern coast, and tiny Baghu, in the southwest.
Information
Most government offices work from 8am until 1.30pm or 2pm Saturday to Thursday. There are busy coffeenets attached to the Farabi and Salar Kish Hotels, catering to visa runners.
Bank Melli (Sanaee St; 7.30am-1.30pm) Changes money with less paperwork than normal.
Customs ( 452 2578) Buying duty-free goods can be more trouble than it’s worth as the customs paperwork can be tedious in the extreme. Call for the latest rules before deciding to buy.
Kish Hospital ( 442 3711; Hormuz Sq)
Kish Tourism Organisation ( 442 2434; www.kto.ir; Kish Tourism Organisation Bldg, Sanaee Sq; 7.30am-2.30pm Sat-Thu) Maps and brochures in English and French; English-speaking staff are on the 2nd floor.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs Kish office ( 4442 0734;