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Iran - Andrew Burke [240]

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1st fl, Kish Tourism Organisation Bldg, Sanaee Sq; 8am-2.30pm) Kish is the only place in Iran that foreigners can visit without needing a visa. If you’re arriving by air or boat from outside Iran, you get a free 14-day ‘Kish visa’ on arrival. Once on Kish, the ministry can issue normal tourist visas and you can continue into Iran, making this a handy back door. We know of several travellers who have come in this way and when we asked in the office this time they told us ‘yes, no problem’. Visa fees vary by nationality and take four to five days to issue, or two days if you pay a reasonable ‘urgent’ fee.

Paniz Coffeenet (Paniz Bazar; internet per hr IR12,000; 9.15am-1pm & 5-11.30pm)

Police headquarters ( 442 2143; Khatam Blvd)

Post office (Khajoo Sq)

Sights & Activities

Between November and March the best way to see Kish’s sights is by bicycle (Click here). The most interesting is the restored and mercifully cool underground water reservoir called the Payab (off Olympic Sq; admission IR20,000, including guided tour; 10am-6pm). Worth a quick look are the crumbling remains of ancient Harireh ( 24hr). Otherwise, the Greek ship that ran aground here on a clear night in 1966 lures photographers at sunset.

Kish is one of the very few places in Iran where swimming is actively encouraged. There are sandy, uncrowded beaches around most of the coast, but women must use the Ladies’ Beach (admission IR25,000; Arian St, off Sanaee Ave; 8am-6pm). For now this remains hidden away east of the port, but a 25,000-sq-metre Ladies Sporting Complex on the east coast might be finished by the time you arrive. There’s also a Gentlemen’s Beach on the east coast near the hotels, tho+ugh men can in theory swim anywhere (except the Ladies’ Beach, of course). Other activities include diving, horseback riding, glass-bottomed boats and several ‘themed’ parks, including Deer Park (Park-e Ahovan; Ferdosi St; admission IR20,000; 9am-1pm & 4-9pm), a mini zoo and Dolphin Park (www.dolphinparkkish.com; admission US$30, 9am-8pm). Jet-skiing (IR200,000 for 15 minutes) and snorkelling (IR200,000 per trip) are also available; both these activities are run by the diving schools (see below).

CYCLING

Cycling the flat, approximately 40km-long Special Bicycle Route around Kish is a great way to spend a day. Bikes can be hired (for about IR15,000 an hour) from outside the dive shops near the Shayan International Hotel and at the Greek ship.

DIVING

Kish has a fairly well-developed diving scene, with nearby reefs and islands well-stocked with fish. However, prices have sharply increased recently and winds often mean the choice of dive site can be limited. One unimpressed reader told us his three-day diving trip saw him dive the same spot each day. Qeshm might be better (Click here).

Kish Diving Center ( 442 2757; www.kishdivingcenter.com; 7am-sunset), and Kish Diving School ( 442 4355; 7am-sunset), both found on the beach outside Shayan International Hotel, charge about IR350,000 for a one-hour dive with equipment. A four-day PADI open- water course costs IR3,500,000 – and would make you one of a very small group who could say: ‘Where did I learn to dive? Iran!’

Sleeping & Eating

Kish has 46 hotels (and counting) and prices are significantly higher than elsewhere in Iran, though still reasonable by Western standards. Prices do vary by season – these are mid-season rates – and top out during No Ruz (Iranian New Year) when the island is totally mental. At non-peak times the hotel desk at the airport offers good midrange deals.

There are no mosaferkhanehs on Kish. The only cheap beds are in apartment hotels packed full of migrant workers renewing their visas. Farabi and Salar Kish Hotels serve this market, as do cheap restaurants in the area.

Farabi Hotel ( 442 3417; Sanaee Sq; bed IR70,000; ) Sprawling, busy place beside Kish Airlines. Apartments are a bit worn but fine.

Salar Kish Hotel ( 442 0111; Sanaee Sq; per bed/s IR70,000/500,000; ) Smaller than Farabi but with bigger apartments; usually four or five beds in each.

Parsian Hotel ( 442 4991; Ferdosi

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