Iran - Andrew Burke [268]
However, Zahedan’s bad reputation seemed fully justified in the days following the Bam earthquake (Click here). No sooner did truckloads of aid arrive than much of it disappeared on pik-ups (utilities with canvas covers) going east. Rightly or wrongly, the Baluchis of Zahedan were blamed for stealing as many as 90,000 Iranian Red Crescent tents earmarked for the needy of Bam. And these figures came straight from the government in Tehran.
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Esteghlal Restaurant ( 322 2250; Imam Khomeini St; meals IR15,000) Less than no frills, but a decent range of cheap staples in the centre of town. Don’t confuse it with…
Esteghlal Grand Hotel ( 323 8088; Azadi Sq; meals IR60,000) The indoor/outdoor restaurant out back serves unsurprising but tasty fare in a relaxing setting. The best in town.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Given Zahedan’s isolation, flying makes a good alternative to long hours of overland travel. It’s also a good idea for northward journeys to Mashhad.
Iran Air ( 322 0813/4; Motahhari Blvd), near Azadi Sq, flies from Zahedan to Chabahar (IR284,000, six times weekly), Esfahan (IR512,000, Friday only), Kerman (IR258,000, Friday only), Mashhad (IR436,000, four times weekly) and Tehran (IR599,000, once or twice daily).
Mahan Air flies regularly to Tehran, though you might need to board a Tupolev, which on Fridays goes to Dubai for Zahedan’s only international flight. Tickets are available from travel agencies.
BUS & SAVARI
Buses head north all the way to Mashhad, usually travelling overnight so you miss the desert scenery. More manageable are day trips to Zabol (opposite) and Kuh-e Khajeh by savari. Note that all buses from Zahedan face lengthy stops at checkpoints Click here.
The sprawling terminal in the west of Zahedan is, like so many others in Iran, chaotic in an organised fashion. Buses leave several times a day for the following destinations; longer trips usually leave in the afternoon or evening, for a morning arrival. These days most buses are Volvo or similar (prices here are for Volvos), though if you’re prepared to ask around – and wait – a Mercedes will eventually run to most destinations.
To/From Pakistan
There are frequent buses (IR6000, 1½ hours) and minibuses (IR7500, 1½ to two hours) from Zahedan to Mirjaveh (96km). Most buses leave from the bus terminal. The easiest way, however, is to get a savari (IR20,000, one hour) from Forudgah Sq in the far east of town. Drivers will ask for as much as US$20 for the trip, but bargain your hardest.
The Iran-Pakistan border is 15km east of Mirjaveh village, so clarify whether your vehicle is going to the village or border. See also Crossing the Pakistan Border at Mirjaveh/Taftan, Click here.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Drivers travelling between Turkey and India often describe the trip between Zahedan and Quetta, across the vast Baluchestan desert, as the worst leg of their journey. The road from Quetta to the Iranian border is barren and lonely, with few facilities and a risk of bandits; consider driving in convoy once on the Pakistan side.
The clearly signposted road between Zahedan and Kerman is good, but short on facilities. Take plenty of water and make sure your vehicle is in good order or risk a potentially long and unpleasant wait for repairs. Petrol is available in Mirjaveh (20L maximum), Zahedan and Fahraj (between Zahedan and Bam).
TRAIN
The new train line linking Bam and Zahedan should open by 2009. Check Raja Trains (www.rajatrains.com) for updates.
To/From Pakistan
The long, remote, dusty, sometimes cold and often uncomfortable train