Iran - Andrew Burke [269]
Iran and Pakistan have plans to increase cross-border trains between Zahedan and Quetta when the line to Bam is finished (see To the Orient By Train, Click here), until then the train is supposed to leave on the 3rd and 17th of every month by the Western calendar at 8.30am, insh’Allah (if God wills it). It usually does, but do call the not-exactly-overworked stationmaster in Zahedan’s attractive train station ( 322 4142) to double-check; mornings are best. The trip is scheduled to take 30 hours, but as reader Michael von Kuelmer reported, two days is more likely:
‘The speed is 20 to 30km/h, great for viewing and taking pictures. We needed c 47 hours for the whole trip, including about five hours at the border. You can use that time for shopping in Taftan (we bought blankets). Armed guards accompany you on the Pakistani side. The whole staff of the train (more staff than passengers) was very friendly, handshaking with the driver included! The train stops in villages on the way, which gives you the opportunity to meet unbelievably nice people there. It’s a ride you won’t forget but with warm clothes and enough food and drink it’s a pleasant journey as well! And don’t be put off if the train is leaving late; ours left with half-a-day delay. It’s holiday – you are not in a hurry!’
You pay in rial to Taftan (IR12,000), and in rupees from Taftan to Quetta. Alternatively, you could get yourself across the border and get on the train in Taftan.
Getting Around
A private taxi between the airport and town will cost about IR15,000, if you bargain hard.
You’ll be lucky to get a private taxi for less than about IR5000, and from the bazaar to the terminal expect to pay IR7000. Shuttle taxis are available along the main roads for about IR1500 a trip. Around town taxis cost about IR20,000 an hour.
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ZABOL
0542 / pop 128,000
North of Zahedan, Zabol is a dusty frontier town that’s sufficiently close to the Afghanistan border – and far enough away from Tehran – that it’s full of smugglers, illicit goods, big-bearded Afghans and the ever-present suggestion of drugs, especially opium. As you wander through the bazaar it becomes clear this is no ordinary town. There are all manner of smuggled goods for sale and there’s a good chance you’ll see pungent opium smoke wafting out from behind curtained-off sections of stall.
The town has been inhabited for millennia and is known in Iran as the birthplace of Rostam, the mythical hero of Ferdosi’s epic poem the Shahnameh. There’s little of great historical interest left, though a newly opened museum (Ferdosi St; Sat-Thu) has a small display of archaeological finds. It’s housed in the old British consulate, built in 1899, east of the bazaar and opposite the Amin Hotel. Hours are flexible (ie it opens when they feel like it).
Combined with a trip to Kuh-e Khajeh (opposite), and perhaps a brief stop at Shahr-e Sokhta (the Burnt City, 56km south of Zabol), Zabol makes a good day trip from Zahedan. How much company you’ll have depends on the security situation at the time (see the boxed text). Whatever the situation, they don’t see many foreigners out here, so you’ll probably stand out. Keep your best weapon – a smile – at the ready.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Amin ( 222 2823; Ferdosi St; s/tw IR85,000/125,000; ) The family-run Amir, near the bazaar, is a good budget sleeping option. English isn’t spoken (and there’s no English sign) but staff is happy to help and you can use the kitchen. It’s about 400m east of Imam Khomeini St, on the northern side of the street – look for the green front and a small yellow sign.
Hotel Aram ( 229 5400; Rostam Sq; r IR310,000; ) For more luxury, this hotel outside the terminal has squat bathrooms, TV and fridge to go with its pink interior