Iran - Andrew Burke [333]
Signs in public places show officially acceptable versions of hejab: the chador (literally ‘tent’ in Farsi), an all-encompassing, head-to-toe black garment held closed with hand or teeth; or a manteau (a shapeless trench coat or shirt dress) with loose trousers and a maqna’e (a nun-like head scarf, or wimple).
In reality the dress code is more relaxed and open to interpretation. It’s not unusual to see young Tehranis wearing figure-hugging manteaus, tight jeans, and colourful headscarves perched on the back of their dyed hair. Foreign women are not usually judged as harshly as Iranian women when it comes to hejab, and few Iranians will bat an eyelid if you have your fringe showing. Though as anywhere, it pays to look at what women around you are wearing; for example you’ll probably want to dress more conservatively in Qom than you would in Tehran. For an idea of the diversity of Iranian women’s fashion, search Google images for ‘women’s fashion Iran’.
Wearing any scarf and a man’s long-sleeved shirt several sizes too large should get you through immigration and your first day or two. However, you’ll probably want to buy a manteau as soon as possible because otherwise you’ll feel dowdy around so many stylish Iranians. They’re easy to find and cheap at about US$15 to US$30. Younger travellers can go for a mid-thigh version but older women may want something longer. Wear your manteau over jeans or comfortable trousers suitable for the season.
If you’re coming to Iran from Pakistan or India a shalwar kameez, a long, loose men’s shirt worn over baggy trousers, is also acceptable (albeit far from fashionable), provided it completely covers your bottom. Some travellers wear long Indian skirts with baggy hippie tops, but locals perceive this as sloppy.
Hejab in summer is hell. At this time of year manteaus in light, natural fabrics are strongly recommended, though they can be oddly difficult to find in Iran. It’s coolest to wear nothing underneath your manteau except a bra, but this could be embarrassing if you’re invited to someone’s house and are expected to remove your manteau. In such situations Iranian women carry a blouse to change into. Alternatively, some readers suggest wearing a synthetic sports top or a light shirt in any material that wicks away sweat, such as CoolMax or Dry-FIT. Even inside someone’s home, tight, strappy tops, singlets and plunging necklines are usually inappropriate. If you’re thinking about the bra-only option, pack a few safety pins to hold together the parts of the manteau that might gape. They’re also good for pinning your headscarf under the chin if you get tired of it slipping too far back.
Very fine, light silk scarves stay in place more easily than slippery polyester or heavy silk. They’re hard to find in Iran, so shop before you arrive for a summer trip. Sandals without socks are fine for summer wear.
The only times when foreign women must wear a chador are when visiting some shrines and mosques. These can almost always be borrowed onsite. If you choose to struggle with a chador more generally you run the risk of being thought of as try-hard by women in smaller towns and being laughed at by more ‘modern’ women in cities, such as Tehran.
If you’re hiking or camping, you should still wear hejab. Your guide might suggest it’s OK to remove your manteau and headscarf if there’s no-one around and you’re in a remote area. However, you should always wear them as you approach or stay in villages, even if your guide says (because he wants to make you happy) it’s not necessary.
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Transport
CONTENTS
* * *
GETTING THERE & AWAY
ENTERING THE COUNTRY
LAND
SEA
TOURS
GETTING AROUND
AIR
BICYCLE
BOAT
BUS
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
HITCHING
LOCAL TRANSPORT
MINIBUS
PRIVATE TAXI
SAVARI (SHARED TAXI)
TOURS
TRAIN
* * *
Return to beginning of chapter
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Return to beginning of chapter
ENTERING THE COUNTRY
Arriving in Iran is usually straightforward.