Iran - Andrew Burke [334]
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ESPECIALLY IN IRAN, THINGS CHANGE…
You don’t need to be a rocket scientist to know that the information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change. Where we have listed prices, they should be read as a guide only. In a country where inflation was running at about 25% and fuel costs rising sharply when we were researching, prices on the ground will almost certainly be higher than those listed here.
Such economic factors are particularly trying for small businesses, so don’t be surprised if some services have closed altogether. Having said that, we’re confident we’ve listed strong businesses wherever possible. We’re also confident that on the ground you will be able to get the latest taxi/bus/train fares yourselves, just as you check with airlines or travel agents to make sure you understand how a given airfare (and ticket) works. Shop carefully, of course, and for more up-to-date details ask other travellers on the Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree).
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Passport
Iran has issues with Israel. If you’re travelling on an Israeli passport you’ll be turned away at the border (and you won’t even get onto a flight coming into Iran). Similarly, having an Israeli stamp in your passport will see you turned away or put on the next flight out (for details see Applications for Visas, Click here).
AIR
Airports & Airlines
The vast majority of international flights come to Tehran. However, a growing number of travellers are choosing to start or end their trip in Shiraz, thus saving some backtracking.
Tehran has two international airports, the old Mehrabad International Airport (THR) and new Imam Khomeini International Airport (IKA). As of late 2007, all international flights except those to/from Medina, Jeddah and Damascus fly into IKA. As IKA isn’t that big, delays on arrival are very possible. A second terminal is being built and can’t come soon enough.
Elsewhere in Iran, Shiraz, Esfahan, Bandar Abbas and Kish are (in that order) potentially useful arrival or departure points, while Abadan, Ahvaz, Mashhad, Tabriz and Zahedan are less useful.
Iran Air is the national airline and has the Homa, a mythical bird, as its symbol. It has a reasonably good reputation. As the government-owned carrier, it offers service with an Islamic flavour (ie no pork, no alcohol and no exposed hair on the hostesses). Women flying on Iran Air used to have to wear hejab from the time they arrived at the departure airport, but these days most women don’t put on the headscarf until the plane has landed; if you’re unsure, just watch what other women do. The same applies to all other airlines.
Use the following lists when looking for direct flights to/from Iran. For airline offices in Tehran, Click here.
IRANIAN AIRLINES & THEIR INTERNATIONAL DESTINATIONS
All airlines are based in Tehran except for Taban Air, which is in Mashhad.
Caspian Airlines (code RV; www.caspian.aero) Beirut, Budapest, Damascus, Dubai, İstanbul, Kiev, Minsk, Yerevan.
Iran Air (code IR; www.iranair.com) Amsterdam, Ankara, Bahrain, Baku, Beijing, Caracas, Cologne, Copenhagen, Damascus, Doha, Dubai, Frankfurt, Geneva, Gothenburg, Hamburg, İstanbul, Kabul, Karachi, Kuala Lumpur, Kuwait, London, Milan, Moscow, Mumbai, Paris, Rome, Seoul, Stockholm, Tashkent, Tokyo, Vienna.
Iran Aseman(code EP; www.iaa.ir) Bishkek, Dubai.
Kish Air (code Y9; www.kishairline.com) Damascus, Dubai, İstanbul.
Mahan Air (code W5; www.mahan.aero) Arbil, Almaty, Bahrain, Bangkok, Dammam, Damascus, Delhi, Dubai, İstanbul, Kochi, Lahore, Seoul, Sharjah, Tokyo.
Taban Air (code TBM; www.tabanair.ir) Almaty, Damascus, Dubai.
FOREIGN AIRLINES & THEIR DESTINATIONS
Aeroflot (code