Iran - Andrew Burke [4]
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ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
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CANYONS, FORESTS & PADDYFIELDS…IN IRAN?! 10 Days / Tabriz to Masuleh
Challenge Iran’s desert image in the lush and rarely visited mountains of northwestern Iran. In the remotest sections you’ll need to charter taxis, but with rides at about US$6 per hour they’re an affordable luxury.
Start in Tabriz, where you can explore the brilliant covered bazaar and the contrasting Valiasr District. Allow a day or two for an excursion to the quaint troglodyte village of Kandovan. Head to Jolfa and spend the afternoon at the ancient Church of St Stephanos and in nearby canyons. In Jolfa arrange a taxi for the next morning’s early start: reaching Kaleybar along the fascinating Aras River Valley will take a long day. Unwind in Kaleybar after hiking up the soaring crag of nearby Babak Castle.
Take a savari from nearby Ahar via Meshgin Shahr to Ardabil for impressive views of Mt Sabalan. While in Ardabil visit the Sheikh Safi-od-Din Mausoleum, one of western Iran’s finest monuments. Descend to the Caspian Sea coast either via Astara, or through nomad country via Kivi and Khal Khal (both Click here). Stop in Bandar-e Anzali or Rasht to enjoy the garlic-stoked food, then escape through paddyfields and thick forests to the mountain village of Masuleh.
This intriguing 1000km-long meander through alternative Iran is ideal for those who’ve already seen the main desert city sites and who are confident in navigating through areas unaccustomed to foreign visitors. A sizable chunk (265km) is covered during one long day on the splendid taxi ride between Jolfa and Kaleybar.
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DESERT DETOUR 10 Days / Esfahan to Kerman
After a few days in bustling cities, the wide open spaces, ancient mud-and-straw towns and tiny oasis villages in and around the Dasht-e Kavir desert are a tonic for the soul. Start this detour when you’ve finished in Esfahan and take a short bus trip to Na’in, on the edge of the desert.
From Na’in hitch or take the bus east to Khur, and a taxi or any transport you can find to take you the last 38km to Garmeh. The silence in this oasis village is profound, and the hospitality at Ateshoni heartfelt; you’ll likely be here longer than planned.
Take a bus to Yazd and check into one of the atmospheric traditional hotels in the old town. Explore the old city, visit the Zoroastrian Towers of Silence and a qanat, the underground water veins that keep these desert cities alive.
Take a day trip to Meybod, Chak Chak and the mud-brick ghost town of Kharanaq, and if you’re fit perhaps a one- or two-day trek into the deserts around Yazd. Continue south and – having called ahead – stop in for one night of Safavid-era luxury in the restored Caravanserai Zein-o-din, a wholly unforgettable experience that’s worth the money.
Move to Kerman, where you can arrange camel or 4WD tours to the beautiful sand castles at Kaluts.
Do not even think of doing this trip during summer. October to April is the best time to travel, carrying something warm for the cold nights.
If you’ve ever dreamt of the oasis towns of the 1001 Nights, or are drawn to the vast expanses of emptiness, this 1330km-long trip is for you. Transport isn’t always frequent, so try to plan ahead and brace yourself for some long waits – or consider renting a taxi.
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TAILORED TRIPS
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THE CRADLE OF PRE-ISLAMIC RELIGIONS Two Weeks / Off the Beaten Track in Western Iran
Fire your imagination with millennia of religious history and myth. Start in ancient Shush, visiting the tomb of the Jewish hero Daniel as well as the nearby Choqa Zanbil, a magnificent 3000-year-old Elamite ziggurat (stepped pyramid). Climb into the mountains along the Babylonian ‘Royal Road’ via Kermanshah to