Iran - Andrew Burke [5]
David Rohl’s book Legend claims that the area around bustling Tabriz is the historical Garden of Eden, and that Mt Sahand, above the lovely village of Kandovan, is the Old Testament’s Mountain of God. Northwest of Tabriz is Bazargan, from where Mt Ararat (Noah’s Ark crash-landing spot) is clearly visible. Nearby Jolfa, in the beautiful valley of the Aras River (the Bible’s Gihon; ), charming Church of St Stephanos was originally founded just a generation after Christ. To the east of Tabriz, around Ardabil, is Genesis’ Land of Nod guarded by the magnificent volcanic peak of Mt Sabalan, the metaphorical fire-sword of the Cherubim.
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THE TRANSIT-VISA DASH Five Days / Turkey to Pakistan
The days of extendable transit visas are over. But if a transit visa is all you can get, overnight buses mean that you can still get a taste of Iran’s two gem-cities while crossing the country for barely US$30 all in. On day one, leave Van (Turkey) in the early morning, cross the border at Sero to arrive in Orumiyeh by early afternoon. At 3.30pm take the overnight bus to glorious Esfahan, avoiding Tehran. Spend two days in Esfahan then on the third evening take a night bus (six hours) to wonderful Yazd. Book the next night’s ticket to Zahedan before spending the day exploring Yazd. With luck you’re not too tired to enjoy its splendid alleys and badgirs (windtowers). You’ll arrive in unpleasant Zahedan early and head straight through to the Pakistani border.
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Snapshot Andrew Burke
‘Come, come, drink chay,’ says Reza, seating me and settling cross-legged on the carpet nearby. ‘So, what do you think about Iran?’
I love Iran, Reza. But what do you think about Iran?
‘I love Iran too, of course, this is my land and it is a great country. But I tell you, we have many problems. Especially with this president. Many people from other countries think we’re crazy, and sometimes when I look at the TV, I think Ahmadinejad is crazy, too. All this rhetoric he spouts when he is overseas, talking about Israel all the time and saying Iran has no…you know…homosexuals. Hah! Who does he think he is kidding? Sure, the Arabs might like what he says and in some ways it is good to see him standing up to arrogant George Bush. But I ask you, how different is Mahmoud Ahmadinejad? A couple of my friends like him; they say he’s honest and he is not part of the revolutionary establishment. But most of us Iranians have heard enough promises from him and his government to know better. He promised to be different from all the mullahs of the last 25 years, who have just become rich on oil. He said he’d put oil money on the dinner tables of ordinary Iranians. I tell you, there’s no oil on my table. My wife is still making ghorme sabzi and the cooking oil costs more than ever. Do you know what is the inflation in Iran? It’s 25%! Bist o panj! The government says 13% but you can’t trust them, they’re worse than the bazaris.’
Yes, I can relate to you on that one, sounds like politicians everywhere. But what about this nuclear program? I see the Bushehr reactor is opening soon and everyone in America and Europe is worried about it…even the Chinese are unhappy. What do you think? Does Iran really need nuclear energy? I mean, you have the second-largest reserves of oil and gas of any country on earth, isn’t that enough to keep all those Paykans running? And as for nuclear weapons, do you think they are really trying to build a bomb?
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FAST FACTS
Population: about 70 million
Part of population aged under 30: 70%
Surface area: 1,648,000 sq km
Highest point: Mt Damavand