Iran - Andrew Burke [87]
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Melal Apartment Hotel (Map; 8879 0543; www.melal.com; 68 Naseri St, off Valiasr Ave; s with breakfast US$190-290, d US$225-325; ) The Melal’s luxurious apartments are a taste of how the wealthy live in Tehran. For your bundles of cash (just imagine the rials!) you get large spaces with two or three bedrooms, all decorated with Persian motifs, such as copper fireplaces adorned with Achaemenid soldiers. Facilities include a terrace swimming pool (men only, summer only), gym, café (yes, with real coffee) and two classy restaurants. All rooms have ADSL internet. Melal Group has three other apartment hotels in Tehran, all of a similar standard if slightly different in style; see them on the website.
If ever there was an argument for the management of an international chain, the following three orphans of the ’70s are it. Service can be a bit public service, and prices reflect glories past rather than the wrinkled present. Fortunately, very reasonable rates can be had online.
Azadi Grand Hotel (Map; 2207 3021; www.azadigrandhotel.com; Chamran Expressway, near Evin Crossing; s/d US$120/145; ) The Hyatt in its previous life; location in far north Tehran is a long way from anywhere except the International Trade Fair Ground.
Laleh International Hotel (Map; 8896 5021; www.lalehhotel.com; cnr Dr Hossein Fatemi Ave & Hejab St; s/d/ste with breakfast US$130/145/254; ) North of Park-e Laleh, the ex-InterContinental is ideally located and rooms have fine views.
Homa Hotel (Map; 8877 3021; www.homahotels.com; 51 Khoddami St; d/ste with breakfast US$183/245; ) Former Sheraton that’s almost, but not quite, worth it for the Saturday Night Fever flashbacks. Tired, overpriced rooms, though all have free internet.
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EATING
Tehran is a long way from being one of the world’s culinary capitals, but its range of foreign cuisines make a refreshing change from the Iranian staples. Like the city itself, Tehran’s food scene draws on a broad selection of cultural influences and caters to both ends of the budget spectrum. Sleek modern restaurants take a more Western approach to presentation and price, but even something as exotic as Thai curry will probably cost less than you’d pay for a couple of beers back home.
Not surprisingly, Iranian food is available all over Tehran, but for non-Iranian food you’ll almost certainly have to head to the wealthier north. Note that most of the places listed under Teahouses & Cafés Click here also serve excellent Iranian food. All listings here are ordered by price, from cheapest to most expensive. For more on Iranian food, see Food & Drink.
Restaurants
Many Iranian restaurants are hidden away underground, so be on the lookout for anonymous-looking stairwells.
IRANIAN RESTAURANTS
The most atmospheric Iranian restaurants are actually teahouses (Click here).
Istanbul-No Restaurant (Map; off Jomhuri-ye Eslami Ave; meals IR20,000-30,000; 11am-5pm) Tucked away 20m down a lane near the Hotel Naderi, this hole-in-the-wall serves a surprising range of lunchtime dishes, with the usual kababs sharing space with huge pots of khoresht (any kind of meaty stew), ghorme sabzi (stewed beans, greens and mince) and mirza ghasemi (mashed eggplant, squash, garlic, tomato and egg). Recommended particularly for budgeteers.
Ferdosi Sonnati (Map; 6671 4503; Ferdosi St; meals IR15,000-30,000; 11am-9pm) The Ferdosi is a popular place that is especially busy at lunchtime, when its well-priced classic Persian dishes attract traffic from busy Imam Khomeini Sq.
Tarighat Restaurant (Map; 3391 3097; Amir Kabir St; meals IR35,000; noon-4pm Sat-Thu) Handy to the budget accommodation,