Iran - Andrew Burke [88]
Khosbin Restaurant (Map; 3390 2194; 406 Sa’di St; meals IR15,000-35,000; 11.30am-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm) If you can’t face another kabab – or are looking for some vegetarian (not vegan) fare – the no-frills Khosbin serves a refreshing range of Gilani food. Vegetarians should ask for the delicious mirza ghasemi or baghli (a broad bean dish), or perhaps the zeytoun parvardeh (olives marinated in pomegranate juice with crushed walnuts). There’s no English sign; look for the red writing on the front window.
Sofre-Khaneh Sonatee Ali Ghapoo (Map; 8877 7803; Gandhi Ave; meals about IR85,000; noon-3pm & 7.30-11pm) This big, noisy subterranean restaurant is where Iranians go for a boisterous group meal. Waiters in traditional dress set the tone and the atmosphere is as enjoyable as the Iranian food. The fun is expensive by Tehran standards and gets more so after the traditional band starts at 9pm.
Gilac (Map; 8804 8291; 15 Park des Prices, off Kordestan Hwy; meals IR70,000-130,000; noon-4pm & 7pm-midnight Sun-Fri) The ambience, décor, music and food presentation at Gilac are more reminiscent of Europe than Iran. But the delicious food is wonderfully Caspian. It’s a favourite of vegetarians, with the mirza ghasemi (IR22,000), borani bademjan (IR25,000) and dokhtar-e luce (‘spoilt girl’, IR27,000) starters all delicious; in combination, they’d happily make a meal on their own. The fish and veal dishes are also excellent. To find it, get to Vanak Sq, walk about five minutes west on Molla Sodra St, under the expressway, then take the first right, go one block north and it’s in what looks like a housing estate on your left.
Armenian Club (Map; 670 0521-2; 68 Khark St, cnr France Ave; meals IR80,000-150,000; 8pm-midnight daily & noon-3pm Fri) The Armenian Club is almost a one-off in Tehran. Because it’s a Christian establishment, women can legally eat or just hang out sans hejab, and if you can get your hands on something harder than Fanta, it’s fine to BYO and drink it with your meal (sorry, no advice on where to find it). The barbecued sturgeon (IR100,000) and beef stroganoff (IR50,000) are both winners, and the range of kababs goes all the way to ‘Mexican’. The club doesn’t advertise its existence – look for a yellow awning and a tiny buzzer – but welcomes guests. Note that Muslims (at the government’s direction) cannot enter.
Literally on the side of a mountain, Park-e Jamshidiyeh (Stone Park; Map; Feizieh Ave, Niyavaran St, Tajrish; all restaurants about 10am-midnight) is home to four restaurants perching on the slope. The first one you’ll see is Khaneh Azarbaijan (2282 0114), which is also the best value, with ash-e reshte (IR10,000), dizi and kofte Tabriz (both IR35,000) fair value if you don’t add too many extras. Unfortunately, the other three seem to take pride in overcharging tourists, with the Iranian food, which has barely discernible Kurdish and Turkmen influences, overpriced (more than IR100,000 a meal) and extra costs soon inflating the bill to twice what you anticipated – you’ll be charged for everything they put on the table. The park is worth a visit, but think about bringing a picnic lunch – even the tea costs IR45,000.
On balmy evenings in summer, Tehranis head for Darband and Darakeh, where the walking trails are lined with cafés and restaurants serving everything from full kabab meals to generous helpings of dizi, ash (yogurt and barley soup) or just snacks.
OTHER CUISINES
By the time you get to Tehran you might be desperate for something a little more exotic than kababs – even a little spicy! Fortunately, Tehran has it. Foreign food is expensive by Iranian standards, but you’d probably pay much more for far less at home. See the English-language newspapers for other foreign restaurants. It pays to book on weekend nights.
Market (Map; 8879 1959; Gandhi Shopping Centre, Gandhi Ave; sandwiches IR40,000-50,000; noon-11pm Sat-Thu & 6-11pm Fri) Part café, part gourmet