Iran - Andrew Burke [89]
Jaam-e Jam Food Court (Map; Jaam-e Jam Shopping Centre, cnr Valiasr Ave & Taheri St) You don’t come here for the fast food, though the coffee isn’t bad. You come to see the closest thing to a Western-style pick-up bar in Iran, complete with designer clothing and inches of make-up.
Taj Mahal (Map; 8803 5444; Vanak Sq, Mollasadra Ave, 29 Sheikh Bahaei St; meals IR55,000) In the hotel of the same name, the Taj has a reputation for serving the best Indian food in Iran. The curries here are mouth-watering and there is a good range of vegetarian options. Pity about the location.
Monsoon (Map; 8879 1982; Gandhi Shopping Centre, Gandhi Ave; meals IR80,000; closed Fri) Monsoon has been around for several years now and has a reputation for the best Asian food in Tehran. The fare ranges from Thai curries to sushi, served in an intimate setting and complemented by exceptional service. It’s smart, sophisticated, relatively expensive and very new Tehran – menus only come in English.
Tandoor Restaurant (Map; 8830 0873; Ardalan St; meals IR80,000; noon-3pm & 7-11pm) Under the Safir Hotel, the Tandoor has been popular in Tehran since before the revolution and is the most convenient place in the south to find a decent curry (when we ate, the lamb was far superior to the chicken), though if you want it hot, ask. There are a few vegetarian dishes for about IR35,000 each.
Bix (Map; 8878 8272; Gandhi Shopping Centre, Gandhi Ave; meals IR70,000-100,000; 12.30-4.30pm & 7pm-midnight Sat-Thu, 7pm-midnight Fri) Bix calls itself a Californian-Italian pizzeria, and that’s not far from the truth. The indoor-outdoor setting, well-trained waiters and limited menu of gourmet pizzas and well-presented pastas, salads and meat dishes draw plenty of north Tehran’s young and well-heeled.
Bistango (Map; 8855 4409; www.bistangorestaurant.com; Raamtin Residence Hotel, 1081 Valiasr Ave; meals about IR200,000; noon-3pm & 7-11pm) Arguably Tehran’s best restaurant, Bistango’s air of sophistication, refined service and relatively adventurous international cuisine keep Tehranis coming despite the wads of rial it costs them. For food, think honey Dijon salmon with garlic roasted potato and ratatouille (IR170,000). Lunchtime specials are just IR110,000.
VEGETARIAN RESTAURANTS
Some Tehranis have just said ‘no’ to kabab. Check out the www.iranvegetarians.com site for any new options.
Coffee Shop & Vegie Restaurant of Iranian Artists’ Forum (Map; 8831 0462; Batulshan St, off Iranshahr Ave; meals IR15,000-35,000; 11am-10pm) This dedicated vegetarian restaurant is excellent value and a good place to meet young, educated and artistic Tehranis. It’s in a brick building at the southern edge of Park-e Tehran, and has an informal, busy ambience with young people coming and going. Owner Aman promised there would be no mystery meat in the salads (less than IR10,000), sandwiches (IR20,000), pizzas (IR25,000) or khoresht (IR18,000), among others.
Ananda Vegetarian Restaurant & Coffee Shop (Map; 2255 6767; South Ekhtiyarieh St, off 10th Behestan St, off Pasdaran St; meals IR35,000-60,000; 12.30-10.30pm) Way up in north Tehran the Ananda is a gem if you’re a vegetarian, and delightful even if you’re not. Run in association with the Iranian Society of Vegetarians (www.iranvegetarians.com), there’s no chance of finding rogue bits of meat here and the food is both delicious and cheap. We can recommend the Ananda lasagne (IR35,000) and Ananda calzone (IR33,000), the freshly made salad (no plastic wrap!) and the service and setting. Come by taxi and ask for Pasdaran PTT – it’s just next door.
Quick Eats
The kababi (kabab shop) might be under pressure from such foreign influences as the burger joint (Boof is the big Iranian chain) and pizzeria, but head to almost any major square and you’ll find both a kababi and, usually, at least one fast food joint selling burgers, pizza and meat sandwiches. The area around Tehran Bazar also