Iran - Andrew Burke [90]
Akbar Mashti Bastani (Map; Shahid Bahonar Ave; 10am-midnight) Akbar Mashti became famous for his ice cream in the 1950s and today his son continues to sell what he modestly describes as ‘the most famous ice cream in Iran and the world’. Try the pistachio bastani (IR7000) and you’ll probably agree. It’s next to Bank Melli, about 150m east of Tajrish Sq.
For breakfast, you’ll notice some low-key looking places selling big boiling pots full of kalleh pache (sheep brain and other offal). One such kalleh pazi (Map; Mostafa Khomeini St) worth checking out is conveniently near to Amir Kabir St, off Baharestan Sq.
Self-Catering
No matter where you are, fresh fruit and vegetables and various types of flat bread won’t be far away (Click here for different types of bread). Small grocery stores stocking food such as tinned fish, Iranian fetta cheese, yogurt, fruit juices, cold meat, pasta, rice and shelves stacked with other staples are also common, except around Amir Kabir St. If you’re in southern Tehran, head for the bazaar and Jomhuri-ye Eslami Ave, east of Ferdosi St.
More extravagant options exist in northern Tehran, including the luxury foods underneath the Jaam-e Jam Shopping Centre (Map; Valiasr Ave) and the tiny Sanaee Coffee Shop (Map; St 13, off Sanaee St) for a huge range of imported coffee.
Hiland Supermarket (Map; 8850 5701; Ahmed Qasir St, off Arzhantin Sq; 10am-10pm) This place is full of hard-to-find Western goods, such as coffee, baby products, pads and tampons, condoms, magazines and plenty of baby products. Look for the green façade just south of Arzhantin Sq.
Teahouses & Cafés
Almost all Iranian teahouses (chaykhaneh) also serve food, and in Tehran several of the best restaurants are actually teahouses. Tehran’s café scene is also improving, with no shortage of trendy places attracting the Tehrani youth, mainly in the northern suburbs. In contrast to the traditional ambience of the chaykhaneh, most of Tehran’s cafés are modern places serving an educated, relatively sophisticated youth who look for their influences in Europe more so than the Middle East. Which makes them fun places to hang out, meet people (many of whom will speak English) and get under the skin of modern Iran. Gandhi Ave is probably the café capital of Tehran, thanks in no small part to one complex full of cafés…
Sofrekhaneh Amol Mazandaran (Map; 3394 1630; Amin Darbar Alley, off Amir Kabir St; 9am-10.30pm) Under the mosaferkhaneh of the same name, this underground place is the classic south Tehran local, with men eating cheap dizi (IR13,000), drinking tea (IR500) and smoking qalyan (IR10,000). A genuine working-class Tehran experience.
Ghaem Teahouse (Map; 0912 320 0113; Tajrish Sq; meals IR35,00-65,000; noon-midnight) Behind a curtain and up an unmarked stairwell on the southeastern corner of Tajrish Sq, this is an ideal, if somewhat pricey, place from which to watch the people and traffic carnage over tea, qalyan and dates (IR40,000, 4pm to midnight only). It also does the usual range of kababs.
Azari Traditional Teahouse (Azari Coffeehouse; Map; 5537 6702; Valiasr Ave, near Rah-Ahan Sq; meals IR30,000-65,000; 7am-4.30pm & 8pm-midnight) About 250m north of Rah-Ahan Sq, this restored ‘coffeehouse’ in south Tehran is wonderfully atmospheric because it remains popular with locals, who use it as an unofficial community centre. The dizi and chicken kababs are rightly popular. A traditional band plays most evenings when the boisterous atmosphere is best enjoyed with a group, and bookings are recommended.
Iranian Traditional Restaurant (Agha Bozorg; Map; 8890 0522; 28 Keshavarz Blvd; meals IR45,000; noon-midnight) This underground place is modern Iranian social interaction in microcosm, and full of young Iranians flirting, smoking and eating (in that order) under attractive vaulted and tiled ceilings. The dizi (IR24,000) and kababs are reliably good and well-priced for this location, though at busy times you won’t be allowed to linger. It’s tucked away down an ornately tiled staircase, just east of the Canon/Konica shop.