Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [129]
Campo de Fiori ( 01-276 4257; 1 Albert Ave; mains €15-25; 5-10.30pm Mon-Tue & Fri & Sat, 2-9pm Sun) One of the best Italian restaurants along the eastern seaboard, everything here has the flavour of authenticity, from the homemade breads and dipping oils to the complimentary shot of limoncello liqueur with the bill.
Barracuda ( 01-276 5686; www.barracuda.ie; Strand Rd; mains €19-25; noon-9pm) When you’ve had your fill of live sea creatures in the National Sealife Centre, head upstairs to this minimalist, metal-and-mirrors restaurant and see what happens to Nemo when a really good chef gets his hands on him…or not. For your newly found love of the sea and all its inhabitants, there’s always a good steak.
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
Harbour Bar ( 01-286 2274; Seapoint Rd) A strong contender for Ireland’s best pub, here you can enjoy an excellent pint of Guinness in a quiet atmosphere of conviviality. There is a separate lounge with velvet curtains, assorted paintings and cosy couches. Sundays see the gay and lesbian community chill to some terrific DJs.
Clancy’s Bar ( 01-286 3191; Quinnsboro Rd) A real spit-and-sawdust kind of place with a clientele as old as the wood in the bar; it’s perfect for a quiet pint and a chat.
Porterhouse ( 01-286 0668; Strand Rd) The Bray branch of one of Temple Bar’s most popular pubs, this equally popular watering hole does a roaring trade in beers from around the world as well as its own selection of intoxicating brews.
Mermaid Art Centre ( 01-272 4030; Main St; admission free; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) An art gallery, theatre and cinema. The theatre puts on excellent gigs and modern, experimental-style plays, while the cinema shows art-house movies almost exclusively. Call to check prices. The art gallery has constantly changing exhibitions featuring the latest Irish and European works.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
With the Dublin Bus ( 01-872 0000) service, buses 45 (from Hawkins St) and 84 (from Burgh Quay) serve Bray (one way €2.50, one hour).
St Kevin’s Bus ( 01-281 8119; www.glendaloughbus.com) to Dublin departs from Bray Town Hall (€2.50, 50 minutes) at 8am and 5pm Monday to Friday, 10.30am and 5pm Saturday, and 10.30am and 6.30pm Sunday. From Dublin, buses depart from in front of the Mansion House on Dawson St.
Bray train station ( 01-236 3333) is 500m east of Main St just before the seafront. The DART (one way €3.50, 30 minutes) runs into Dublin and further north to Howth every five minutes at peak times and every 20 or 30 minutes at quiet times.
The station is also on the main line from Dublin to Wexford and Rosslare Harbour, with up to five trains daily in each direction Monday to Saturday, and four on Sunday.
Kilmacanogue & the Great Sugarloaf
pop 839
At 503m, it’s not even Wicklow’s highest mountain, but the Great Sugarloaf is one of the most distinctive peaks in Ireland, its conical tip visible for many miles around. The mountain towers over the small village of Kilmacanogue, on the N11 about 4km south of Bray, which would barely merit a passing nod were it not for the presence of the mother of all Irish craft shops just across the road from the village.
Avoca Handweavers ( 01-286 7466; www.avoca.ie; Main St) is one hell of an operation, with seven branches nationwide and an even more widespread reputation for adding elegance and style to traditional rural handicrafts. Operational HQ is in a 19th-century arboretum, and its showroom will leave you in no doubt as to the company’s incredible success.
Shopping for pashminas and placemats can put a fierce hunger on you, and there’s no better place to satisfy it than at the shop’s huge and always-busy restaurant (mains €12-18; 9.30am-5.30pm), which puts a premium on sourcing the very best ingredients for its dishes. It is best known for its beef-and-Guinness casserole, but vegetarians are very well catered for as well. Many of the recipes are available in the two volumes of the Avoca Cookbook, both on sale for €45 for two.
Bus Éireann ( 01-836