Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [130]
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WALK: THE GREAT SUGARLOAF
Before you attack the 7km, moderately difficult walk to the summit, we recommend that you get the Wicklow Trail Sheet No 4 (€1.50) from the tourist office in Bray.
Start your walk by taking the small road opposite St Mochonog’s Church (named after the missionary who administered the last rites to St Kevin). Ignore the left turn and continue round the bend until you get to a small bridge on your right. To your right, you’ll see the expanse of the Rocky Valley below, a defile eroded by water escaping from a glacial lake that developed during the last Ice Age, about 10,000 years ago. Continue on the path until you reach a fork: the lower road to the right continues round the mountain, while the left turn will take you up to the summit. As you reach the top, the track starts to drop; turn left and scramble up the rocky gully to the top. Return by the same path and continue southwards until you reach a large grassy area. Cross it, keeping to your left until you reach a gate. With the fence on your right, go downhill until you reach a path of grass and stones. This path takes you around the southern side of the mountain, where you will eventually pass a small wood on your right. Immediately afterwards you will see, on your left, a sports pitch known as the Quill. Beyond it is Kilmacanogue.
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Greystones to Wicklow
The resort of Greystones, 8km south of Bray, was once a charming fishing village, and the seafront around the little harbour is idyllic. In summer, the bay is dotted with dinghies and windsurfers. Sadly, the surrounding countryside is vanishing beneath housing developments.
SIGHTS
Horticulturalists from around the world can be found salivating and muttering in approval as they walk around the 8-hectare Mt Usher Gardens ( 0404-40116; www.mountushergardens.ie; adult/child/student €7.50/3/6; 10.30am-6pm mid-Apr–Oct), just outside the unremarkable town of Ashford, about 10km south of Greystones on the N11. OK, not really, but the gardens are pretty special, with trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants from around the world laid out in Robinsonian style – ie according to the naturalist principles of famous Irish gardener William Robinson (1838–1935) – rather than the formalist style of preceding gardens.
SLEEPING
Hunter’s Hotel ( 0404-40106; www.hunters.ie; Newrath Bridge, Rathnew; s/d €95/190; ) This exquisite property just outside Rathnew on the R761 is an absolute find, with 16 stunning rooms, each decorated with unerringly good taste. The house, one of Ireland’s oldest coaching inns, is surrounded by an award-winning garden that is part of the Wicklow Gardens Festival (see the boxed text, Click here).
EATING
Three Q’s ( 01-287 5477; Church Rd; mains €14-20; 9am-10pm Tue-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun) You’ll find a smart menu at this elegant restaurant, with dishes like wood pigeon and duck sharing the space with North African delicacies like baked Moroccan fish with chickpeas, tomato and coriander.
Organic Life/Marc Michel ( 01-201 1882; Tinna Park, Kilpedder; mains around €17; 10am-5pm, restaurant noon-4pm) Our favourite spot in all of Wicklow is this superb organic restaurant attached to the Organic Life shop in the town of Kilpedder, about 2km south of the Greystones turnoff on the N11. All of the vegetables are grown in the fields surrounding you (Ireland’s first organically certified farm), while the beef served in the superb burger is bought from a local cattle rancher. The sole pity is that it’s only open for lunch.
Hungry Monk ( 01-287 5759; Church Rd; mains €19-27; 7-11pm Wed-Sat, 12.30-9pm Sun) An excellent 1st-floor restaurant on Greystones’ main street. The blackboard specials are the real treat, with dishes like suckling pig with prune and apricot stuffing to complement the fixed menu’s classic choices – fresh seafood, Wicklow rack of lamb, bangers ‘n’ mash and so forth. This is one of the better places