Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [146]
Although little remains of Viking Wexford, the keysers (meaning ‘roads to the quays’) still exist. These tiny paths, just one packhorse wide, fall at right angles to the river and the lifeblood of the city ran through them: honey, wheat and malt were taken from Wexford’s warehouses to the waterside, and whale oil, wool and fish came from the harbour into town.
The main road was Keysers Lane, which led from Keysergate in the old city walls to the Viking ship pool (now the Crescent). The gradual silting up of the harbour left the keysers as an interesting historical footnote …and a modern traffic nightmare.
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After Henry II murdered his friend Thomas Becket, he did penance at Selskar Abbey, founded by Alexander de la Roche in 1190. Basilia, the sister of Robert FitzGilbert de Clare (better known as Strongbow), is thought to have married one of Henry II’s lieutenants in the abbey. Its present ruinous state is a result of Cromwell’s visit in 1649. Currently visitors aren’t able to access the interior, but there are plans for its restoration – check with the tourist office.
South of the Bull Ring, St Iberius’ Church (North Main St; 10am-3pm Mon-Sat) was built in 1760 on the site of several previous churches (including one reputed to have been founded before St Patrick came to Ireland). Oscar Wilde’s forebears were rectors here. The Renaissance-style frontage is worth a look, but the real treat is the Georgian interior with its finely crafted altar rails and set of 18th-century monuments in the gallery.
In 1649 Cromwell’s forces made a bonfire of the original 13th-century Fransiscan Friary (School St; 10am-6pm), so most of the present building is from the 19th century. Only two original walls remain. Some parts, such as the tabernacle, are very modern, creating an appealing architectural incongruity. The friary houses a relic and wax effigy of St Adjutor, a boy martyr slain by his own father in ancient Rome.
Activities
Wexford Golf Club ( 053-914 2238; www.wexfordgolfclub.ie; Mulgannon; 18 holes weekdays/weekends €40/45) is well signposted off the R733, about 2km southwest of town. Even hackers will appreciate the views of Wexford and the harbour.
Tours
Guided one-hour walking tours ( 053-916 1155; adult/concession €5/4) leave at 11am Monday to Friday year-round from outside Whites of Wexford hotel (opposite).
Festivals & Events
The Wexford Festival Opera (wwww.wexfordopera.com), an 18-day extravaganza, is held at the Wexford Opera House in October/November. First held in 1951, it’s now the country’s premier opera event, with rarely performed operas and shows playing to packed audiences. Fringe street theatre, poetry readings and exhibitions give the town a fiesta atmosphere during the festival, and many local bars run amateur song competitions. Although it’s advisable to book several months ahead, it’s worth checking for last-minute tickets.
Sleeping
Wexford’s proximity to Dublin attracts weekenders, and accommodation is often scarce during the Wexford Festival Opera – book ahead at these times and in high summer.
BUDGET
Ferrybank Camping & Caravan Park ( 053-914 4378; www.wexfordcorp.ie; Ferrybank; tent/van sites €14/20; Easter-Sep; ) Right across the river from the centre, council-run Ferrybank is in a windy location but has fantastic views of town. Facilities include a heated pool next door, laundry facilities and a children’s play area.
Kirwan House ( 053-912 1208; www.wexfordhostel.com; 3 Mary St; dm/s/d/q €22/35/60/100) Occupying a triple-decker Georgian building, some rooms in this IHH hostel are brightened by sky-blue walls and have private bathrooms. The TV room has an open fireplace, and there’s a small dishevelled garden and bike storage shed out back.
MIDRANGE
Abbey B&B ( 053-912 4408; www.abbeyhouse.ie; 34-36 Abbey St; s €35-45, d €60-80; ) Dwarfed by the enormous Whites Hotel across the street, this cute, black-and-white B&B blazes with window boxes trailing red blooms in summer. Its five rooms all have private bathrooms and fresh floral decor; evening meals can be arranged