Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [147]
Blue Door ( 053-912 1047; http://indigo.ie/~bluedoor; 18 Lower George St; s/d from €45/80) Behind the eponymous cobalt-blue door of this 200-year-old townhouse, bright, airy bedrooms are framed by floor-to-ceiling windows, and are quiet despite the central location.
Talbot Hotel ( 053-912 2566; www.talbotwexford.ie; Trinity St; s €59-119, d €78-198; ) A landmark on Wexford’s quayfront, this hotel, established in 1905, has water views from many of its well-equipped rooms, and a first-floor pool, steam room, sauna and gym. There’s a stylish restaurant open for dinner (three-course menu €33.50) and a popular bar (Click here).
McMenamin’s Townhouse ( 053-914 6442; www.wexford-bedandbreakfast.com; 6 Glena Tce, Spawell Rd; s/d €65/100; ) Rooms at this red-brick late-Victorian B&B are furnished with period antiques including canopied beds. You are well looked after, not least at breakfast where the menu features homemade breads and jams, rum-laced porridge, and kidneys with sherry.
TOP END
Whites of Wexford ( 053-912 2311; www.whitesofwexford.ie; Abbey St; r €98-256; ) With its bars, restaurants and hi-tech spa, Whites is a contemporary colossus. The 157 rooms are all metal right-angles, plasma and glass, gazing across the estuary to Curracloe Beach. Public areas and high-end rooms have wi-fi.
Ferrycarrig Hotel ( 053-912 0999; www.ferrycarrighotel.ie; Ferrycarrig; r €99-239; ) Don’t let the institutional exterior of this sprawling complex put you off – it’s oriented to take advantage of its position on a glorious seal- and swan-inhabited stretch of the River Slaney. All 102 rooms have river views, and most have balconies. A handy 10-minute walk from the Irish National Heritage Park, the Ferrycarrig’s restaurants, bars and leisure facilities are family friendly, but one floor of guestrooms is peacefully designated adults-only.
Eating
D’Lush ( 053-912 3795; Wexford Arts Centre, Cornmarket; dishes €5-8; 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) A local favourite, this vegetarian-friendly cafe is fully licensed and specialises in wholesome sweet and savoury crêpes.
SkyView Cafe ( 053-914 2598; Wexford Opera House, High St; dishes €5-10; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) Whisk up to the third floor of Wexford’s snazzy opera house for salad bowls such as Cuban-spiced Irish salmon with pineapple salsa or rosemary-baked Italian ham, decadent puddings (like raspberry and white chocolate crème brÛlée or pear and almond frangipane tart), or just a chilli hot chocolate, accompanied by panoramic waterfront views.
Yard ( 053-914 4083; 3 Lower George St; lunch mains €8-12, dinner mains €18.50-26.50; cafe 9am-6pm, restaurant lunch & dinner) The brainchild of the Centenary Stores’ owner, this intimate low-lit restaurant opens to an elegant courtyard beneath a canopy of fairy lights. Adventurous contemporary cuisine ranges from oxtail ragout with truffle oil to a chocolate-cola cake.
Amalfi Coast ( 053-912 4330; Henrietta St; mains €18-35; dinner Mon-Sat) OK, so you can’t see its namesake Amalfi coastline from this 1st-floor restaurant. But it does have glittering views of the illuminated quay, as well as high-level Italian dishes – particularly seafood, such as steamed whole lobster.
Vine ( 053-912 2388; 109 North Main St; mains €16-20; dinner) Following the creaking dark timber staircase leads you to this land of glimmering mirrors and metal flowers, where fragrant Thai dishes include mu phad kaprow (stir-fried pork with chillies and basil) and gaeng peht ped yang (roast duck in red curry).
Le Tire Bouchon ( 053-9124877; 112-113 South Main St; mains €17.50-31; dinner) Above the Sky & the Ground pub, the ‘Corkscrew’ serves modern French/Irish cuisine: pan seared duck breast with burnt orange and ginger, griddled ostrich and so on.
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WALKS: COUNTIES WEXFORD & WATERFORD
Counties Wexford and Waterford have plenty of opportunities to stretch your legs, both inland and beside the sea. Among the best:
Wexford Coastal Walk – signposted 221km-walk along Wexford’s wreck-littered coastline
Mt Leinster Click here – views of five counties from its 796m