Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [155]
Across the street from the church, the roadside pub Templar’s Inn ( 051-397 162; Templetown; mains €10-22; restaurant 12.30-9pm Mar-Oct, noon-8pm Thu-Sun Nov-Mar, pub noon-late daily), opens to a panoramic outdoor terrace overlooking the church, fields and ocean beyond. Inside, the dark-timber interior looks like a wayfarers’ tavern, but is a cosy place for a steak or seafood. Owner Nancy is a fount of info on the area.
Just beyond Templetown en route to Duncannon are two small, delightfully secluded beaches: Dollar Bay and Booley Bay.
Duncannon & Around
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The small, laidback holiday town of Duncannon slopes down to a sandy beach that’s transformed into a surrealist canvas during July’s Duncannon International Sand Sculpting Festival (www.visitduncannon.com).
To the west of the village, star-shaped Duncannon Fort ( 051-389 454; www.duncannonfort.com; adult/child/family €5/3/12; 9.30am-5.30pm Jun–mid-Sep, rest of yr by appointment) was used as a set for The Count of Monte Cristo starring Richard Harris and Guy Pearce (2001). The fort was built in 1588 to stave off a feared attack by the Spanish Armada, and later used by the Irish army as a WWI training base. There’s a small maritime museum and a cafe; guided tours (included in admission) depart at 11am and 3pm. A military re-enactment weekend takes place here over the June bank holiday.
About 4km northwest of Duncannon is pretty Ballyhack, from where a car ferry travels to Passage East in County Waterford (Click here). It’s dominated by the 15th-century Ballyhack Castle ( 051-389 468; admission free; 10am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep), a Knights Hospitallers tower house, containing a small exhibition on the Crusades.
Beside the R733, some 9km north of Duncannon, the ruined Dunbrody Abbey ( 051-388 603; www.dunbrodyabbey.com; Campile; adult/child €2/1; 11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep) is a remarkably intact Cistercian abbey founded by Strongbow in 1170 and completed in 1220. The adjoining Dunbrody Abbey Visitor Centre (adult/child €6/3) provides access to the ruins of Dunbrody Castle, a craft shop, a museum with a huge doll’s house, minigolf, and a yew-hedge maze made up of over 1500 trees.
SLEEPING & EATING
Aldridge Lodge Restaurant & Guesthouse ( 051-389 116; www.aldridgelodge.com; Duncannon; s €55, d €100-110; dinner Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, Wed-Sun Sep-Jun; ). In a wind-blown spot on open fields above Duncannon, Aldridge takes a bit of finding, but it’s worth it for its elegant, contemporary guestrooms and fresh local seafood like Hook Head crab claws or Kilmore cod (dinner €38.50). Two caveats: call ahead for periodic closures, and kids under seven aren’t allowed. Heading out of Duncannon village towards Hook Lighthouse, turn right at Wallace’s Mobile Homes; it’s 500m ahead on your left.
Glendine Country House ( 051-389 500; www.glendinehouse.com; Arthurstown; s/d from €60/120; ) This vine-covered 1830s-built former dower house is wonderfully homey. Bay windows overlook the estuary and grounds populated by deer, cattle and sheep. The Crosbie family lay on organic fare and home-baked treats such as cream teas.
Squigl Restaurant & Roche’s Bar ( 051-389 188; Quay Rd, Duncannon; bar food €6.50-14.50, restaurant mains €19.50-23.50; bar food 10.30am-10pm, restaurant dinner Wed-Sat Feb-Easter, Tue-Sun Easter-Dec) Local produce is the mainstay of Squigl, where dishes range from honey-glazed ham to spring lamb (bookings essential). The same kitchen serves Roche’s Bar next door, which is adorned with vintage advertising posters and seamen’s knots. Trad sessions take place on Friday, Saturday and, during summer, midweek.
Dunbrody Country House Hotel, Restaurant & Cookery School ( 051-389 600; www.dunbrodyhouse.com;