Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [156]
Getting There & Away
There’s public transport as far as Fethard, but none to Hook Head.
BUS
West Coast Wexford Rural Transport ( 051-389 679; www.wexfordruralbus.com; Ramsgrange Centre, New Ross) has at least one service per week to towns throughout the upper Hook Peninsula. Return fares are €5 to €8; €3 for students and under-16s.
On Monday and Thursday, Bus Éireann ( 053-912 2522) service 370 runs between Waterford, New Ross, Duncannon, Templetown, Fethard, Wellington Bridge and Wexford. The entire journey takes 2¾ hours. The same bus links Waterford, New Ross and Duncannon from Monday to Saturday (departing in the evening), and Waterford, New Ross, Wellington Bridge and Wexford on Wednesday and Saturday. In all cases there is one service in each direction (none on Sunday).
FERRY
If you’re travelling directly to Waterford city, the Ballyhack–Passage East car ferry (Click here) saves detouring via New Ross.
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NEW ROSS
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The big attraction at New Ross (Rhos Mhic Triúin), 34km west of Wexford town, is the opportunity to board a 19th-century Famine ship. But New Ross’ historical links stretch back much further – to the 12th century, when it developed as a Norman port on the River Barrow. A group of rebels tried to seize the town during the 1798 Rising. They were repelled by the defending garrison, leaving 3000 dead and much of the place in tatters. Today its eastern bank retains some intriguing steep, narrow streets and the impressive ruins of a medieval abbey.
The tourist office ( 051-421 857; The Quay; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar) doubles as the entrance to the Dunbrody Heritage Ship, and also has a small cafe and internet terminals (€2 per 20 minutes). Alternatively, surf the net across the street at Solaak Inventures ( 051-420 807; The Quay; per hr €4; 10am-11pm Mon-Sat, 1pm-midnight Sun).
Sights & Activities
Emigrants’ sorrowful yet often-inspiring stories are brought to life by actors during a 30-minute tour of the Dunbrody Heritage Ship ( 051-425 239; www.dunbrody.com; The Quay; adult/child €7.50/4.50; 10am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Mar), a full-scale replica 1845 Famine ship (also known as a ‘coffin ship’, due to the number of passengers who didn’t survive the journey). Prior to the tour, a 10-minute film gives you background on the original three-masted barque and the construction of the new one. Admission includes access to the onsite database of Irish emigration to America from 1845 to 1875, containing over two million records.
By the time you’re reading this, New Ross’ answer to France’s Bayeux tapestry is due to have opened across the Quay from the Dunbrody Heritage Ship. The Ros Tapestry ( 051-445 396; www.rosexpo.ie; The Quay) will weave together the story of the Normans’ influence on Ireland via fifteen panels created by volunteer embroiderers, and incorporate a cafe and craft shop.
Two- and three-hour cruises on the Galley River Cruising Restaurant ( 051-421 723; www.rivercruises.ie; North Quay; cruise & tea/lunch/dinner from €12/25/40; 12.30pm, 3pm & 7pm May-Oct) drift slowly up the River Barrow, past rolling fields and peaceful farmlands. You can enjoy the ride over a cuppa or local fare like Wexford lamb or poached salmon, followed by local strawberries and cream.
The roofless ruin on Church Lane is St Mary’s Abbey, one of the largest medieval churches in Ireland. It was founded by Isabella of Leinster and her husband William in the 13th century. Ask at the tourist office for access.
Sleeping & Eating
MacMurrough Farm Hostel ( 051-421 383; www.macmurrough.com; MacMurrough, New Ross; dm €16-18, d €40-44,