Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [157]
Brandon House Hotel ( 051-421 703; www.brandonhousehotel.ie; New Ross; s €125-150, d €190-260; ) Up a steep driveway 2km south of New Ross, with river views, this 1865-built redbrick manor certainly lives up to its reputation as family friendly, with kids happily bounding around the place. Winning elements include open log fires, a library bar and large rooms, as well as spa treatments. Wi-fi in the public areas extends to some nearby rooms.
Sid’s Diner ( 051-421 973; Marsh Meadows; mains €8.50-10.50; 7am-7pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat) Worth a stop for its sheer eclecticness, Sid’s, 1.5km south of the centre, serves sturdy Irish classics in an American-style diner (complete with red-vinyl booths and licence plates) by Renault-branded staff (it’s next to the showroom).
Upper Deck Cafe ( 051-425 391; 8 Mary St; mains €9-15; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Tucked up a wooden staircase inside the general store Ann McDonald’s Deli, this arty cafe adds a modern twist to the wholefood formula with dishes like a four-cheese quiche and grilled salmon marinated in ginger, honey and lime.
Cafe Nutshell ( 051-422 777; 8 South St; mains €12-16; 9am-5.15pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep, 9am-5.15pm Tue-Sat Oct-May) It’s a shame that Nutshell closes of an evening, as New Ross’ town centre is short on places of this calibre. Scones, breads and buns are all baked on the premises, hot lunch specials utilise local produce and there’s a great range of smoothies, juices and organic wines.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 053-912 2522) buses depart from Dunbrody Inn on the Quay and travel to Waterford (€5.40, 30 minutes, 11 daily Monday to Saturday, seven Sunday), Wexford (€6.30, 40 minutes, four daily Monday to Friday, three Saturday), Rosslare Harbour (€12.20, one hour, four daily Monday to Saturday, three Sunday) and Dublin (€12.20, three hours, four daily).
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AROUND NEW ROSS
About 7km south of New Ross, the Kennedy Homestead ( 051-388 264; www.kennedyhomestead.com; Dunganstown; adult/child/family €5/2.50/15; 10am-5pm Jul & Aug, 11.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri May, Jun & Sep, by appointment rest of yr) was the birthplace of Patrick Kennedy, great-grandfather of John F Kennedy, who left Ireland for the USA in 1848. When JFK visited the farm in 1963 and hugged the current owner’s grandmother, it was his first public display of affection according to his sister Jean. Jean later unveiled the plaque here. The outbuildings have been turned into a museum that examines the Irish-American dynasty’s history on both sides of the Atlantic.
Containing 4500 species of trees and shrubs in 252 hectares of woodlands and gardens, the John F Kennedy Arboretum ( 051-388 171; New Ross; adult/child/family €2.90/1.30/7.40; 10am-8pm May-Aug, 10am-6.30pm Apr & Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-Mar) is the promised land for families on a sunny day. The park, 2km southeast of the Kennedy Homestead, has a small visitor centre, tearooms and a picnic area; a miniature train tootles around in the summer months. Slieve Coillte (270m), opposite the park entrance, has a viewing point from where you can see the arboretum and six counties on a clear day.
On the N25, 15km east of New Ross, Cedar Lodge Hotel and Restaurant ( 051-428 386; www.cedarlodgehotel.ie; Carrigbyrne, Newbawn; s from €90, d €120-160; bar food lunch; restaurant dinner; ) sits amid orchards and backs onto the Carrigbyrne Forest, with beautiful wooded walking trails. Although the hotel has 30 flowing rooms (with enormous bathrooms), it feels like staying in a private home, thanks to ceramic ducks lining the staircase and fluffy teddy bears in the reception area. Veal in white wine,