Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [162]
The sumptuous interior of the Catholic Holy Trinity Cathedral ( 051-874 757; Barronstrand St) boasts a carved-oak baroque pulpit, painted pillars with Corinthian capitals and 10 Waterford Crystal chandeliers. It was built between 1792 and 1796 by John Roberts, who, unusually, also designed the Protestant Christ Church Cathedral.
The elegant ruin of the French Church is on Greyfriars St, announced by a statue of Luke Wadding, the Waterford-born Franciscan friar who persuaded the Pope to negotiate with Charles I on behalf of Irish Catholics. Hugh Purcell gave the church to the Franciscans in 1240, asking them in return to pray for him once a day. The church became a hospital after the dissolution of the monasteries, and was then occupied by French Huguenot refugees between 1693 and 1815. John Roberts is buried here. Ask the staff at Reginald’s Tower to let you in.
Edmund Ignatius Rice, founder of the Christian Brothers, established his first school at Mt Sion on Barrack St. A whiz-bang interactive museum, the Edmund Rice International Heritage Centre ( 051-874 390; www.edmundrice.ie; Barrack St; adult/child €7/4; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat Oct-Mar) recreates life in 18th-century Waterford. It incorporates a chapel, where Edmund Rice’s tomb takes pride of place, awaiting the anticipated canonisation of its occupant.
OTHER BUILDINGS
The Mall, a wide 18th-century street built on reclaimed land, was once a tidal inlet. From the river end, its stateliest buildings are John Roberts’ City Hall (1788) and beautifully refurbished Theatre Royal, arguably Ireland’s most intact 18th-century theatre, and Richard Cassels’ austere Bishop’s Palace (1741), now the city engineering offices.
Crumbling fragments of the old city wall include Beach Tower at the top of Jenkin’s Lane and Half Moon Tower (both are just off Patrick St). One impossible-to-miss building in Waterford is its landmark 1860s clock tower.
GENEALOGICAL CENTRE
If you have ancestors from the county, Waterford Heritage Services ( 051-876 123; www.iol.ie/~mnoc; Jenkin’s La; 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri) may have the details you need to complete your family tree.
Tours
A must for anyone visiting Waterford is Jack Burtchaell’s guided walking tour ( 051-873 711; tour €7; 11.45am & 1.45pm). Jack’s ‘gift of the gab’ brings Waterford’s nooks and crannies alive, effortlessly squeezing 1000 years of history into one hour. Tours leave from the reception area inside the Waterford Museum of Treasures, picking up walkers from the Granville Hotel en route.
Festivals & Events
Now over 50 years old, Waterford’s International Light Opera Festival ( 051-874 402; The Mall; Nov) is cheaper and more easily accessible than the better-known Wexford Festival Opera, but booking is still advisable.
Sleeping
BUDGET
The city has scant budget accommodation (and no hostels), but frequent buses to Tramore allow you to base yourself at one of its budget options.
Mayor’s Walk House ( 051-855 427; www.mayorswalk.com; 12 Mayor’s Walk; s/d €28/50) This respectable four-room B&B is in a tall, thin building. The landing bathrooms are shared, but the large (if dated) rooms have washbasins.
MIDRANGE
Portree Guesthouse ( 051-874 574; www.portreeguesthouse.ie; Mary St; s/d €55/90; ) This friendly Georgian B&B is on a quiet street – a bonus in noisy Waterford. Kids under 12 stay for half price, but reserve ahead as it’s popular with groups.
Ramada Viking Hotel ( 051-336 933; www.ramadavikinghotel.ie; Cork Rd; r €69-139; ) For easy access to the coast without having to contend with city traffic, this efficient hotel