Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [163]
Coach House at Butlerstown Castle ( 051-384 656; www.butlerstowncastle.com; Butlerstown; s/d €70/110; ) A 10-minute drive from town, this 19th-century stone B&B is as appealing inside as it is out, with deep, studded leather armchairs to sink into, toasty open fires to warm up by, canopied beds to drift off in, and pancakes to wake up to.
Granville Hotel ( 051-305 555; www.granville-hotel.ie; Meagher Quay; s/d from €80/99; ) The floodlit 18th-century building overlooking the river is the Granville, one of Ireland’s oldest hotels. Brocaded bedrooms maintain a touch of Georgian elegance, as do the public areas, including a fine restaurant and bar. The hotel’s had its share of famous guests: Charles Stewart Parnell gave a speech from a 1st-floor window.
TOP END
Arlington Lodge ( 051-878 584; www.arlingtonlodge.com; Johns Hill; s/d €150/€230; restaurant dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun; ) Bon vivant Maurice Keller rescued this 1760-built former bishop’s residence from dereliction and transformed it into a warm, intimate boutique establishment. Many of the beautifully wallpapered guestrooms have ornate tiling and stained-glass leadlights. Guests and nonguests can dine on Maurice’s locally sourced creations like organic chicken in tarragon and Grand Marnier soufflé (three-course menu €37.50 to €45). A combined gourmet deli–cafe is due to have opened onsite by the time you’re reading this.
Waterford Castle ( 051-878 203; www.waterfordcastle.com; The Island, Ballinakill; s €245, d €335-450, cottages per night from €300; ) Getting away from it all is an understatement at this mid-19th-century turreted castle, which is located on its own 310-acre island roamed by deer. A free, private car ferry signposted just east of the Waterford Regional Hospital provides round-the-clock access. All 19 castle rooms have clawfoot baths, and some have poster beds. There are also 48 contemporary self-catering cottages on the island. Breakfast is available for €18 to €22, and both guests and nonguests can dine on organic fare in chef Michael Quinn’s sublime oak-panelled restaurant (menus from €65), or play a round of golf (green fees midweek/weekend €44/52).
Eating
Waterford’s hotels and pubs offer some good dining prospects.
Bodéga! ( 051-844 177; 54 John St; lunch mains €7-15, dinner mains €17-26; lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) The exclamation mark in the name clues you in to the effusive nature of this Mediterranean cantina. Sun-inspired, seasonally changing dishes might include garlicky pan-fried calamari or succulent duck.
Harlequin ( 051-877 552; 37 Stephen St; lunch mains €7.50-10.50, dinner mains €10-14; 8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Wed, 8.30am-10.30pm Thu & Fri, 9.30am-10.30pm Sat) Run by young, charismatic Italian duo Simone and Alessandro, this authentic little trattoria morphs throughout the day from a cappuccino and pastry stop to a busy dining spot to a candlelit wine bar. House speciality antipasti platters are laden with cheeses, marinated vegetables and/or finely sliced cured meats.
Cafe Lucia ( 051-854 023; 2 Arundel Lane; mains €8-11; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) This bright, funky cafe dishes up homemade soups, salads, panini, wraps and Thai fish cakes, but it’s especially popular with city workers for its sweet treats like banana crêpes, mixed berry and apple crumble, and rich chocolate fudge cake.
47 The Bistro ( 051-844 774; 47 Patrick St; mains €10.50-17.50; 11.30am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun) Looking like an interior design magazine spread, elevated, S-shaped walnut seating and glossy maple floors provide an unlikely backdrop for comfort food like shepherds pie and stew.
La Bohème ( 051-875 645; 2 George’s Street; mains €29-32, 7-course tasting menu €75; dinner Tue-Sat) Down a short flight of steps in the Georgian ‘Port of Waterford’ vaults, this romantic gem combines French flair with fresh