Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [164]
SELF-CATERING
Fresh food is sold at Waterford’s weekly Saturday market (George’s St; 10am-2pm Sat) alongside local crafts. On the second and fourth Sunday of each month, there’s a mouth-watering farmers market ( 9.30am-2pm) outside Ardkeen Food Store ( 051-874 620; www.ardkeen.com; Dunmore Rd; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun).
Drinking
Geoff’s ( 051-874 787; 9 John St) This cavernous local with creaky wooden floors and rock music pumping from the speakers is a home away from home for Wexford’s alternative crowd.
Downes Bar ( 051-874 118; Thomas St; from 5pm) For a change from stout, drop into Downes, which has been brewing its No 9 Irish whiskey for over two centuries. Have a dram in its series of character-filled rooms, or buy a bottle to take away.
T&H Doolan’s ( 051-841 504; 32 George’s St) A licensed establishment for over 300 years, Doolan’s hosts traditional music every night of the week.
Katty Barry’s ( 051-855 095; Mall La) Don’t be discouraged by the plain exterior and side-street location; this small, friendly place serves a smooth Guinness, and has trad sessions every Wednesday.
Munster Bar ( 051-874 656; Bailey’s New St) Dating from 1822, this wonderful old pub has long been a cosy spot for a pint by its roaring open fire. Of late, it’s also been attracting attention for its gourmet pub grub.
Entertainment
The town’s nightlife relies heavily on the students at the Waterford Institute of Technology, many of whom disappear home at weekends. Clubs concentrate around the Apple Market area. The best are Ruby’s and Kazbar, both on John St.
Garter Lane Arts Centre ( 051-855 038; www.garterlane.ie; 22a O’Connell St) This much-complimented theatre stages art-house films, music, dance and plays in an atmospheric 18th-century building.
Garter Lane Art Gallery (5 O’Connell St) Just down the road, this affiliated gallery hosts regular exhibitions and workshops.
Theatre Royal ( 051-874 402; The Mall) Now resplendently refurbished, Waterford’s flagship theatre stages plays, musicals and dance.
Forum ( 051-871 111; www.forumwaterford.com; The Glen) The mighty Forum hosts everything from gay club nights to the Irish kick-boxing championships.
Shopping
Crystal aside, Waterford has a wealth of local craftspeople creating textiles, paintings, jewellery, pottery, papier-mâché, candles, and furniture built from recycled materials. The website www.waterforddesignermakers.com maintains an updated list, including contact details to arrange appointments.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Waterford Airport ( 051-875 589; www.flywaterford.com) is 9km south of the city centre at Killowen. AerArann ( in the UK 0800 587 2324, in the Republic 0818 210 210; www.aerarann.com) flies twice daily to London’s Luton airport and five days a week to Birmingham and Manchester year-round, and has summer-only services to Lorient and Bordeaux, France; Faro, Portugal; and Malaga, Spain.
BUS
The Bus Éireann ( 051-879 000) station is on the waterfront at Merchant’s Quay. There are frequent daily services to Tramore (€2.70, 30 minutes); Dublin (€12.20, three hours) via Enniscorthy or Carlow; Wexford (€7.20, 1½ hours); Killarney (€21.20, 4¼ hours) via Cork (€17.10, 2¼ hours); and Dungarvan (€10.30, 50 minutes).
Eurolines ( 051-879 000; www.eurolines.ie) runs daily buses to London (€58, 13 hours).
Suirway ( 051-382 209; www.suirway.com) buses depart to Dunmore East (€4, 30 minutes, at least seven daily Monday to Saturday), Passage East (€4, 30 minutes, at least three daily Monday to Saturday) and Portlaw (€4, 30 minutes, at least four daily Monday to Saturday) from opposite the tourist office, next to the Bus Éireann station.
TRAIN
Plunkett train station ( 051-873 401) is north of the river. There are four to six daily services to/from Dublin’s Heuston Station (€27 to €34.50, 2¾ hours), Kilkenny (€14.90 to €19, 45 minutes) and Limerick (€34, 2¾ hours) via Limerick Junction or Kildare.
Getting Around