Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [171]
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SGC Cinema ( 058-45796; www.sgcdungarvan.net; Dungarvan Shopping Centre; adult/child €8/5.50) screens Hollywood flicks in the centre of town.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 051-879 000) buses pick up and drop off on Davitt’s Quay on the way to and from Waterford (€10.30, one hour, 11 daily) and Cork (€14.90, 1½ hours, 13 daily).
Parking in the town centre is metered, but you’ll find free parking by the castle.
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RING PENINSULA
pop 380
Just 15 minutes’ drive from Dungarvan, the Ring Peninsula (An Rinn, meaning ‘the headland’) is one of Ireland’s best-known Gaeltacht areas. En route, views of the Comeragh Mountains, Dungarvan Bay and the Copper Coast drift away to the northeast. At the peninsula’s tip, the small working harbour in Helvick Head has a monument to the crew of Erin’s Hope. The crew brought guns from New York in 1867, intending to start a Fenian uprising, but were arrested when they landed here. Follow signs to An Rinn then Cé Heilbhic, passing Baíle na nGall (‘village of strangers’; it was founded by fishermen from elsewhere).
Ex-Waterford Crystal worker Eamonn Terry returned home to the peninsula to set up his own workshop, Criostal na Rinne ( 058-46174; www.criostal.com; by appointment), where you can buy deep-prismatic-cut, full-lead crystal vases, bowls, clocks, jewellery and even chandeliers.
Sleeping & Eating
Seaview ( 058-41583; www.seaviewdungarvan.com; Pulla; s €45-65, d €60-110; ) Handy for the wonderful An Seanachaí and the Marine Bar, this light-filled guesthouse has comfy rooms (one wheelchair accessible) and sweeping views of Dungarvan and the Comeragh Mountains.
Dùn Ard ( 058-46782; www.ringbedandbreakfast.ie; Gaotha, Dungarvan; s/d from €55/90; ) Perched high above Dungarvan Bay, this sophisticated B&B has three cool, contemporary rooms and exceptionally helpful hosts.
An Seanachaí ( 058-46755; www.seanachai.ie; Pulla; carvery lunch €10, dinner mains €12.50-21, set menu €25; 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-9pm Sun) The rough-hewn walls of the ‘Old Storyteller’ could certainly tell a few stories of their own. Parts of this thatched-roof pub date back to the 14th century from its earliest incarnation as a farm. It’s an atmospheric spot for a pint, a meal (try the house-specialty fish pie) or regular live music. On the grounds, a dozen brand-new self-catering cottages are finished in high-quality timbers (rates on request).
Marine Bar ( 058-46520; www.marinebar.com; Pulla) Sure, there’s good food at this two-century-old pub, but the real reason to stop by is the craic. Year-round, traditional sessions rock the place on Monday and Saturday nights, while locals contest the traditional Irish card game ‘45’ on Wednesday evenings (anyone can join in). There’s music every night (except card night) in summer.
There’s a small supermarket in Ringville.
Getting There & Around
Bus Éireann ( 051-879 000) stops in Ring en route to Ardmore (30 minutes) and Waterford (€12.70, 1¼ hours) via Dungarvan. The buses stop once daily in July and August; Friday and Saturday only in other months.
Pubs, accommodation and shops are scattered along the peninsula; you really need a car or bicycle to get around.
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ARDMORE
pop 415
The seaside village of Ardmore may look pretty but insignificant, but it’s claimed that St Declan set up shop here between 350 and 420. This brought Christianity to southeast Ireland long before St Patrick arrived from Britain. Today’s visitors come mainly for its beautiful strand, water sports and superb places to eat and/or sleep.
Tourist info is available at Ardmore Pottery ( 024-94152; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 2-6pm Sun May-Oct, by appointment