Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [172]
Sights & Activities
In a striking position on a hill above town, the ruins of St Declan’s Church stand on the site of St Declan’s original monastery alongside a cone-roofed, 29m-high, 12th-century round tower, one of the best examples of these structures in Ireland.
On the outer western gable wall of the 13th-century church, weathered 9th-century carvings set in unusual arched panels show the Archangel Michael weighing souls, the adoration of the Magi, Adam and Eve, and a clear depiction of the judgement of Solomon. Inside the church are two Ogham stones featuring the earliest form of writing in Ireland, one with the longest such inscription in the country. Local lore claims St Declan was buried in the 8th-century Oratory (Beannachán), which was re-roofed and modernised in 1716. Inside is an empty pit beneath a missing flagstone, the result of centuries of relic collection. The site was leased to Sir Walter Raleigh in 1591 after the dissolution of the monasteries. In 1642 the building was occupied by Royalist troops, 117 of whom were hanged here.
Pilgrims once washed in St Declan’s Well, located in front of the ruins of Dysert Church, behind the new hotel development above Ardmore Pottery. A 5km, cobweb-banishing cliff walk leads from the well. On the one-hour round trip you’ll pass the wreck of a crane ship that was blown ashore in 1987 on its way from Liverpool to Malta.
At the southern end of the beach is St Declan’s Stone, different geologically from other rocks in the area. It was perhaps brought by glacier from the Comeragh Mountains but, according to legend, St Declan’s bell, which he is often pictured with in his hand, drifted across the sea from Wales on the stone after his servant forgot to pack it. He decreed that wherever the stone came to rest would be the place of his resurrection.
The 94km St Declan’s Way mostly traces an old pilgrimage route from Ardmore to the Rock of Cashel (County Tipperary) via Lismore. Catholic pilgrims walk along it on St Declan’s Day (24 July).
Sleeping & Eating
Newtown Farm Guesthouse ( 024-94143; Grange; www.newtownfarm.com; s/d €53/80; ) Fresh eggs, homemade scones, local cheeses and smoked salmon are on the breakfast menu at this stylish B&B on a working sheep farm. Coming from Dungarvan on the N25, go past the Ardmore turn-off and take the next left 1km further on, from where it’s 100m up the road.
Cliff House Hotel ( 024-87800; www.thecliffhousehotel.com; r €225-265, ste €300-450; closed Jan; ) Built into the cliff-face, all guestrooms at this ultra-contemporary new edifice overlook the bay, and most have balconies or terraces. Some suites even have two-person floor-to-ceiling glass showers (strategically frosted in places) so you don’t miss those sea views. There are also sea views from the indoor swimming pool, outdoor Jacuzzi and spa, the bar (meals €18.50 to €28.50) and the restaurant (menu €62.50). Staff can organise sea kayaking, canoeing, scuba diving, fly- and deep-sea fishing and rock climbing. Seasonal closures can vary.
Olde Forge ( 024-94750; Main St; dishes €5-20; noon-9pm May-Sep) Quality not quantity is true of the variety at this seasonally opening cafe. There are only four or five dishes on the menu at any given time, such as gourmet-style fish and chips.
White Horses ( 024-94040; Main St; lunch mains €8-13, dinner mains €13-24; 11am-4pm & 6-11pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 6-10pm Fri, 11am-4pm & 6-11pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun Oct-Dec & mid-Feb–Apr) Energetically run by three sisters, this smashing bistro serves nourishing fare like fresh seafood chowder or fried brie with tomato chutney on plates handmade in the village. Kids can order half-portions from the adult menu if they fancy something more adventurous than burgers.
There is a small supermarket attached to the post office.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 051-879 000) operates two buses daily Monday to Friday, three Saturday and one Sunday from Cork (€13.80, 1¾ hours) to Ardmore. In July and August there are two buses daily Monday to Saturday to Waterford (€15, two hours) via Ring and