Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [177]
Activities
The River Barrow is awash with canoeists, kayakers and rowers. Go with the Flow River Adventures ( 087 252 9700; www.gowiththeflow.ie) runs daily guided trips that tackle the relatively tame white-water (from €49; advance bookings essential) and, for multiday use only, can rent out canoes (prices on request).
Walking Tour
The tourist office has established a new walking trail around town complete with interpretive panels, but it’s just as easy to start from the tourist office on College St and then hit the highlights as follows. Just to the right of the tourist office is the elegant Regency Gothic Cathedral of the Assumption (1), which dates from 1833. The cathedral was the brainchild of Bishop Doyle, a staunch supporter of Catholic emancipation. His statue inside includes a woman said to represent Ireland rising up against her oppressors. The church also has an elaborate pulpit and some fine stained-glass windows.
Next door is St Patrick’s College (2), officially known as Carlow College (www.carlowcollege.ie), Ireland’s first post-penal seminary. Opened in 1793, it is thought to have been in use for longer than any other seminary in the world, and today specialises in humanities and social studies. Its president, Father Kevin O’Neill, is an avid art collector, which explains both the sumptuous collection of works adorning its walls and the fact that the college donated part of its grounds to accommodate Carlow’s new Visual Centre for Contemporary Art. It’s usually possible to get a free, informal tour of the campus – pop into the admin office in the main foyer.
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WALK FACTS
Start Tourist office
Finish Liberty Tree fountain
Distance 2.5km
Duration One hour
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Walking north along College St then turning left on Dublin St, you’ll come to the impressive Carlow Courthouse (3), at the northern end of Dublin St. Designed by William Morrisson in 1830, this colonnaded building is modelled on the Parthenon and is considered to be one of the most impressive courthouses in the country.
Continue down Dublin St and turn right into Centaur St and past the Town Hall (4), dating from 1884. When you reach the river, cross the Millennium Bridge (5) and walk across the park to 98 St where you’ll find the Celtic high cross (6) that marks the mass Croppies’ Grave. Here 640 United Irish rebels were buried following the bloodiest fighting of the 1798 Rising. The name ‘croppie’ came from the rebels’ habit of cropping their hair to indicate their allegiance.
From here turn back into Maryborough St and walk south to the five-arched Graiguecullen Bridge (7), also known as Wellington Bridge, which is thought to be the oldest and lowest bridge over the River Barrow. Cross the bridge and continue east to the ruins of 13th-century Carlow Castle (8), built by William de Marshall on the site of an earlier Norman motte-and-bailey fort. The castle survived Cromwell’s attentions but succumbed to the grand plans of a certain Dr Middleton, who decided to convert it into a lunatic asylum. Proving the cliché about the lunatics running the asylum, he blew up much of the castle in 1814 in order to ‘remodel’ it. All that is left is a single wall flanked by two towers.
Continue up Castle Hill and take the fork to your left onto Castle St. On your left you will see St Mary’s Church (9), built in 1727 (the tower and spire were added later, in 1834), with a number