Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [178]
Walk on up Tullow St, the town’s principal shopping thoroughfare, and take the second right into Potato Market. At the end of the lane is a small square. The bronze statue in the middle of the fountain is the Liberty Tree (10), designed by John Behan to commemorate the 1798 Rising.
Festivals & Events
Every summer (usually in mid-June) Carlow town celebrates the 10-day Éigse Carlow Arts Festival ( 059-914 0491; www.eigsecarlow.ie), when musicians, writers, actors and street performers take over the town. Artists and groups come from across Ireland and as far away as South Korea and India. Late August heralds the nine-day Floral Festival (www.carlowfloralfestival.com), featuring talks by Irish gardening personalities; while you can get your hiking boots muddy during Carlow’s Autumn Walking Festival (www.carlowtourism.com/walking_festival.html), held on the second weekend in October.
Sleeping
Diminutive County Carlow’s abundance of charming inns means it’s easy to stay out in the lovely countryside (see listings throughout the County Carlow section) and pop into town for food and culture. There are some worthwhile options in the centre, though little in the way of budget accommodation.
Barrowville Townhouse ( 059-914 3324; www.barrowville.com; Kilkenny Rd; s €55-70, d €110-130; ) This whitewashed 18th-century townhouse has been meticulously converted into a classy B&B, under five minutes’ walk south of town. The seven rooms vary in size, but are all perfectly atmospheric for curling up with a book. Enjoy local free-range eggs for breakfast in the airy conservatory.
Seven Oaks Hotel ( 059-913 1308; www.sevenoakshotel.com; Athy Rd; s €60-75, d €80-150; ) Warmed by open fires, the richly carpeted lobby and book-lined library of this grand three-star hotel are a local gathering point for a cuppa, as are its timber bar and adjoining restaurant, TD Molloy’s, serving Irish favourites like oak-smoked salmon (lunch menu €20, dinner menus €30 to €37). The autumnal-hued decor extends to the spacious bedrooms, while the health and leisure club incorporates a high-tech gym. To lose the kids (at least temporarily), babysitting can be arranged.
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CARLOW IN BLOOM
County Carlow is renowned for its gardens, 16 of which form part of Ireland’s first dedicated garden trail (www.carlowgardentrail.com). Our top five:
Delta Sensory Gardens Click here – a multisensory, not-for-profit oasis.
Huntington Castle and Gardens Click here - rambling, overgrown grounds in the shadow of a haunted castle, incorporating a canopy of yew trees planted by monks over 700 years ago.
Duckett’s Grove Click here – restored walled gardens behind a ruined Gothic mansion.
Kilgraney House Herb Gardens Click here – aromatic gardens filled with medicinal and kitchen plants.
Altamont Gardens Click here – Heritage-listed Victorian splendour, hosting a weeklong Snowdrop Festival in February.
Green thumbs also shouldn’t miss County Carlow’s summertime Floral Festival (opposite).
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Eating & Drinking
The town is the nightlife hub for those out in the sticks; ask around to find out what the clubs of the moment are. There’s usually something on along Tullow St and Thursday night is popular for live music. Restaurants and cafes dishing up cuisines from around the globe proliferate throughout the town centre.
Caffe Formenti ( 059-914 0533; 20 Dublin St; mains €9.50-12.50; 8am-6pm, to 4pm Jan & Feb) This buzzing cafe combines the talents of an Irish–Italian husband-and-wife team. In addition to daily lunch specials and wholesome soups, there’s a tempting selection of Italian pastries, freshly made gelati and aromatic coffees.
Hennessy’s Fine Foods ( 059-913 2849; 26 Dublin St; dishes around €10; 8am-3pm Mon-Sat) A worthy stop for a meal or gourmet grocery shopping (local cheeses, red onion marmalade, chilli jam, red pepper pesto and so on), Hennessy’s also runs regular cooking classes from 7pm to 10pm (€65).
Lautrec’s Brasserie ( 059-914 3455; 115 Tullow St; meals €17-30; 5-9pm) The Carlow branch of the Kilkenny