Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [199]
Shandon is dominated by the 1722 St Anne’s Church ( 021-450 5906; www.shandonbells.org; John Redmond St; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat), aka the ‘Four-Faced Liar’, so called as each of the tower’s four clocks used to tell a different time. Wannabe campanologists can ring the bells (adult/child €6/5) on the 1st floor of the 1750 Italianate tower and continue the 132 steps up to the top for 360-degree views of the city.
Cork had the largest butter market in the world during the 1860s, exporting butter as far as India, South America and Australia. The Butter Exchange was in Shandon and you can still spot dairy motifs throughout the area: look out for the cow above the old butter market (O’Connell Sq), which was being used as a souvenir centre but is now closed. The Cork Butter Museum ( 021-430 0600; www.corkbutter.museum; O’Connell Sq; adult/child €4/3; 10am-5pm Mar-Jun & Sep-Oct, 10am-6pm Jul-Aug, by arrangement Nov-Feb) has interesting displays showing how the Irish butter industry took a commodity item (butter) and created a brand (Kerry Gold) that has allowed farmers to sell the spreadable stuff at a premium. The square in front of the museum – with its butter-coloured walls – is dominated by the striking Firkin Crane, a round building that was central to the old butter market and which now houses a dance centre Click here.
Other Sights
One of Cork’s most famous figures was Father Theobald Mathew, the ‘Apostle of Temperance’, who went on a short-lived crusade against alcohol in the 1830s and 1840s – a quarter of a million people took the ‘pledge’, and whiskey production halved. The Holy Trinity Church (Fr Mathew Quay) was designed by the Pain brothers in 1834 in his honour, and the Father Mathew Bingo Hall around the corner also celebrates his memory. Mathew’s statue stands on St Patrick’s St.
Red Abbey Tower (Red Abbey St), the only medieval building left in Cork, is all that remains of a 14th-century Augustinian priory. Its location is fairly anonymous, but a bit of imagination will help create a stirring sense of antiquity.
On Grand Pde, near the tourist office, is the ornate Nationalist Monument, erected in memory of the Irish patriots who died during the 1798 and 1867 Risings. Just to the southeast, a mournful war memorial ably captures the loss of generations of Irish soldiers who died as conscripts fighting for the British. Nearby, memories of the bloody past continue at the small stone bridge at the bottom of South Main St. Heads of miscreants were displayed on the ends of pikes here in medieval times.
On the other side of the centre is a bridge that’s much more salubrious. The pedestrian-only Millennium Bridge over the River Lee at the top of Cornmarket St is a modern gem. Its graceful arched design has won scores of awards; at night it is lit up like a jewellery store.
Bishop Lucey Park, off Grand Pde, is a popular and green place of urban respite.
Some 4km east along the Lee, Blackrock Castle ( 021-435 7917; Blackrock; adult/child €6/4; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) is a restored 16th-century castle that now, rather incongruously, hosts a science centre and observatory. But kids love it and the pastoral location is worth the jaunt. Take bus 2 to get there.
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THE ENGLISH MARKET
It could just as easily be called the Victorian Market for its ornate vaulted ceilings and columns, but the English Market ( 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) is a true gem, no matter what you name it. Scores of vendors sell some of the very best local produce, meats, cheeses and takeaway food to go in the region. On decent days, take your lunch to nearby Bishop Lucey Park, a popular alfresco eating spot. A few favourites:
Joup ( 021-422 6017) Has a range of soups and Med-flavoured salads, plus sandwiches on a variety of homemade breads.
On the Pig’s Back ( 021-427 0232) Boasts house-made sausages and incredible cheeses, many ready to munch.
Sandwich Stall Has a drool-worthy display of remarkable and creative sandwiches.