Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [200]
On a mezzanine overlooking part of the market is one of Cork’s best eateries. Farmgate Café ( 021-427 8134; English Market; lunch €4-13, dinner €18-30; 8.30am-10pm Mon-Sat) is an unmissable experience. Like its sister restaurant in Midleton (Click here), this cafe has mastered the magic art of producing delicious meals without fuss or faddism. The food, from rock oysters to the lamb for an Irish stew, is sourced from the market below. There are tables but the best seats are at the balcony counter, where you can ponder the passing parade of shoppers. We still have memories of the seafood chowder and the raspberry crumble.
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TOURS
Arrangements Unlimited ( 021-429 3873; www.arrangements.ie) Organises walking tours on request.
Bus Éireann ( 021-450 8188; www.buseireann.ie; adult/child €11/7.50; departs 10.30am & 2.45pm Jun-Aug) Three-hour open-top bus tour of Cork and Blarney Castle from the bus station.
Cork City Tour ( 021-430 9090; adult/child €14/5; 10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, last bus starts at 4pm) Hop-on-hop-off open-top bus linking the city’s main areas of interest. The Outer Limits Tour takes you outside the centre.
Cork Historic Walking Tours ( 085 100 7300; www.walkcork.ie; adult/child €10/5; 10am & 2pm Mon-Fri Apr-Sep) Runs 90-minute tours from the tourist office.
Cork Literary Tour A free audio walking tour of Cork; pick up a copy or download one onto your MP3 player at the Cork City Library.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Book well in advance, particularly for the October jazz and film festivals.
Cork Film Festival (www.corkfilmfest.org) Eclectic week-long program of international films held in October/November.
Cork Pride (www.corkpride.com) Week-long gay-pride celebrations in May/June.
Cork World Book Fest A huge book festival with loads of authors in late April; sponsored by the Cork City Library.
Guinness Jazz Festival (www.corkjazzfestival.com) All-star line-up in venues across town, held in October.
International Choral Festival (www.corkchoral.ie) A major event held from late April to early May in the City Hall and other venues.
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SLEEPING
Budget
Brú Bar & Hostel ( 021-455 9667; www.bruhostel.com; 57 MacCurtain St; dm €12-24, r from €50; ) This buzzing hostel has its own internet cafe, with free web access for guests, and a fantastic bar, popular with backpackers and locals alike. The dorms (each with a bathroom) have 4 to 6 beds and are both clean and stylish – ask for one on the upper floors to avoid bar noise. Breakfast is free.
Sheila’s Hostel ( 021-450 5562; www.sheilashostel.ie; 4 Belgrave Pl, Wellington Rd; dm €13-18, d €44-52; ) Sheila’s heaves with young travellers, and it’s no wonder given its excellent central location. Facilities include a sauna, free internet access, a pool table and barbecue. Staff can arrange bicycle and car hire. Breakfast is €3 extra.
Kinlay House ( 021-450 8966; www.kinlayhousecork.ie; Bob & Joan’s Walk; dm €13-20, d €44-54; ) This labyrinthine hostel is in a bucolic spot near St Anne’s Church in Shandon. It has a fun, laid-back atmosphere; services include bureau de change, laundry and luggage storage. Guests can use the next-door gym at a discount.
Cork International Hostel ( 021-454 3289; www.anoige.ie; 1 & 2 Redclyffe, Western Rd; dm €13-20, d €54-58; ) Housed in a stolid and attractive red-brick building near the university, this 98-bed An Óige hostel has bright dorms and cheerful staff, who do a great job coping with the constant stream of guests. The drawback is the 2km walk (or bus 8 ride) to the centre along a busy road.
Near the train station the roads are busy and the area is filled with workmen. There’s a handful of basic but clean B&Bs, including the following:
Aaran House Tourist Hostel ( 021-455 1566; 4 Woburn, Lower Glanmire Rd; dm €15-17, d €44; ) Reilly the dog greets all guests.
Oakland B&B ( 021-450 0578; 52 Lower Glanmire Rd; s/d from €45/70) In an 18th-century row house.
Midrange
Western Rd has the biggest choice of B&Bs;