Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [202]
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EATING
Cork’s food scene is reason enough to visit. The English Market (Click here) is a local – no, make that national – treasure.
Restaurants
BUDGET
Cafe Antigua ( 021-427 4644; www.triskelart.com; Tobin St; lunch €5-9; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun, 8pm-late Fri & Sat) Attached to the Triskel Arts Centre, this cool cafe has creative takes on standards, such as full Irish breakfasts, sandwiches and salads. There’s a range of fresh burritos and specials of the day, including soup. Tapas are served at nights when it’s open for salsa and swing music.
Idaho Café ( 021-427 6376; 19 Caroline St; dishes €7-12; 8.30am-5pm) It looks like a trad old caff from the outside, but take a gander at the menu and you’ll find all sorts of creative takes on Irish standards. The tea selection includes scads of herbal numbers and there’s a good per-glass wine menu. Tight seating means nothing is private. Idaho Café makes a good place to regroup while touring or shopping.
Café Glucksman ( 021-490 1848; www.glucksman.org; Lewis Glucksman Gallery, University College Cork; dishes €7-12; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat & noon-4pm Sun) The cafe at the Lewis Glucksman Gallery has sweeping views of the university grounds; there’s a Miesian simplicity to the clean lines of the interior. The food is modern European; expect creative pastas, salads and the frequent appearance of Irish smoked salmon.
Quay Co-op ( 021-431 7026; www.quaycoop.com; 24 Sullivan’s Quay; mains €8-12; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) A gathering spot for the People’s Republic of Cork proletariat, this nonflash cafe offers a range of self-service veggie options (all organic), including big breakfasts, hearty soups and casseroles. There’s daily specials; dishes cater for gluten-, dairy- and wheat-free needs. The bulletin board has news for and of the masses.
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EATING IN THE HUGUENOT QUARTER
The narrow, nearly lightless pedestrianised streets north of St Patrick’s St throng with cafes and restaurants, and the place hops day and night. A plethora of options await – all have outside tables and many serve till late, so the best advice is go for a wander and find somewhere that suits your mood and budget. Among the best picks:
Amicus Café & Restaurant ( 021-427 6455; 23 Paul St Plaza) Bistro fare overlooking a small and vibrant square, where Cork’s fresh-faced goths gather on Saturdays.
Strasbourg Goose ( 021-427 9534; 17-18 French Church St) Excellent food, although the French accent is illusory: le bacon cheeseburger?
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MIDRANGE
Boqueria ( 021-455 9049; www.boqueria.ie; 6 Bridge St; breakfast €4-8, tapas €4-15; breakfast 8.30am-noon daily, tapas noon-late Mon-Sat & 5pm-late Sun) The flavours of Spain shine (even if the sun doesn’t) at this ever-popular tapas bar. In addition to the usual onion-garlic-tomato combinations, the chefs use local creations, such as sourdough, Gubbeen cheese and salmon, to create tasty Irishified tapas. It’s a dusky, intimate spot, favoured by couples in the evenings, and at lunch by friends seeking a civilised glass of wine.
Nash 19 ( 021-427 0880; www.nash19.com; Princes St; mains €8-20; 7.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) A sensational bistro with a small market; local foods are honoured from breakfast to lunch and on to tea. Fresh scones draw in the crowds early; daily fresh specials (soups, salads, desserts, etc) and an incredible burger keep them coming throughout the rest of the day.
Café de la Paix ( 021-427 9556; 16 Washington St; www.cafedelapaixcork.com; mains €8-15; 8am-10pm) An unassuming red exterior hides this chilled-out wine bar backing on to the River Lee. Picture windows make the most of the view and there’s a fabulous riverside deck. Global favourites grace the menu, from Thai curries to daily pasta specials.
Liberty Grill ( 021-427 1049; www.libertygrillcork.com; 32 Washington St; mains €7-20; 8am-10pm) A gleaming white outpost on an otherwise faded street of brick