Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [203]
Star Anise ( 021-455 1635; 4 Bridge St; mains €10-20; noon-2pm, 6-10pm Mon-Sat) Fresh and creative cooking is the hallmark at this narrow little shopfront bistro. There are steaks for the masses but also treats like tiger prawns on chickpea salad and a killer vegetarian lasagne. The wine list is both superb and affordable. Three-course specials are a fine deal at €28.
Market Lane ( 021-427 4710; www.marketlane.ie; 5 Oliver Plunkett St; mains €10-26; noon-late Mon-Sat, 1-9pm Sun) It’s always hopping at this bright corner bistro with an open kitchen. Service is quick and attentive, but you may want to pause at the long wooden bar anyway. The menu is broad, and changes often to reflect what’s fresh. Smoked haddock perched on creamy potatoes is better here than it ever was back in the day. Steaks come with awesome aioli. At lunch, however, you might just get enraptured by the bacon sandwich. Lots of wines by the glass.
Cornstore ( 021-427 4777; www.cornstorecork.com; 40A Cornmarket St; mains €10-28; noon-11pm) Bustling and buzzy day and night, this modern restaurant has a swish bar, where you can enjoy creative cocktails while waiting for a table. Some tables are minute but, if you’re having the amazing house special of lobster, hold out for a large one so your elbows and shells can fly. There’s also excellent fresh fish, steaks and pasta.
TOP END
Jacques Restaurant ( 021-427 7387; http://jacquesrestaurant.ie; 9 Phoenix St; mains €22-27; 6-10pm Mon-Sat) With almost three decades in the business, Jacqueline and Eithne Barry have built up a terrific network of local suppliers to help them realise their culinary ambitions – the freshest Cork food cooked simply. The menu, served in an elegant dining room, changes daily: we loved the fennel risotto with beef short ribs. Clattering dishes in the upstairs kitchen echo down this spot’s tiny lane.
Les Gourmandises ( 021-425 1959; www.lesgourmandises.ie; 17 Cook St; mains €20-30; 6-9.30pm Tue-Sat) Remember those beautiful fresh fish you saw in the English Market? Many of them end up at this cute little restaurant that reminds you of that perfect place you stumbled upon in Paris once… The talented kitchen turns out an array of local fish, and meats also get their due: the rack of lamb is a perennial fave. Service is gracious and calm.
Self-Catering
In addition to the English Market (see the boxed text, Click here), the Quay Co-op Organic & Wholefood Shop (Sullivan’s Quay; 9am-6.15pm Mon-Sat) is an excellent place to find interesting and fresh picnic fare. The farmers market takes over much of Cornmarket St on Saturdays.
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DRINKING
In Cork pubs, drink Guinness at your own peril, even though Heineken now owns both of the local stout legends, Murphy’s and Beamish (and closed down the latter’s brewery). Cork’s microbrewery, the Franciscan Well Brewery, makes quality beers, including Friar Weisse, popular in summer.
An Spailpín Fánac ( 021-427 7949; South Main St) ‘The Wandering Labourer’ really hangs on to its character, with exposed brickwork, stone-flagged floors, snug corners and open fires. There are good trad sessions most nights.
Sin É ( 021-450 2266; Coburg St) You could easily while away an entire day at this great old place, which is everything a craic-filled pub should be. There are no frills or fuss here – just a comfy, sociable pub, long on atmosphere and short on pretension. There’s music most nights, much of it traditional, but with the odd surprise.
Dan Lowry’s ( 021-450 5071; 13 MacCurtain St) Genial is the word as you first enter this timeless family pub and are greeted by the generations of regulars. It’s cosy in more ways than one; you can often get a seat on a Saturday night and enjoy an intimate chat.
Mutton Lane Inn ( 021-427 3471; Mutton Lane) Tucked down the tiniest of laneways off St Patrick’s St, this inviting