Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [204]
Long Valley ( 021-427 2144; Winthrop St) A Cork institution that dates from the mid-19th century and is still going strong. Some of the furnishings hail from White Star Line ocean liners that used to call at Cobh.
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GONE TO THE DOGS
If you tire of the pubs, the live music and the theatre, there’s always the dogs. Greyhound racing is big news in Ireland, particularly with families, and Curraheen Greyhound Park ( 021-454 3095; www.igb.ie/cork; Curraheen Park; adult/child €10/5; from 6.45pm, days vary) is one of the country’s poshest stadiums. There are 10 races a night, plus a restaurant, bar and live music to keep you entertained in between. Curraheen is 5.5km from the centre; to get there, take bus 8. A free bus drops you back between 10.30pm and 12.30am.
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Franciscan Well Brewery ( 021-421 0130; www.franciscanwellbrewery.com; 14 North Mall) The copper vats gleaming behind the bar give the game away: the Franciscan Well brews its own beer. The best place to enjoy it is in the enormous beer garden at the back. The pub holds regular beer festivals with other small (and often underappreciated) Irish breweries – check the website for details.
Abbot’s Ale House ( 021-450 7116; Devonshire St) A low-key 1st-floor pub, whose small size contrasts with a huge beer list. There are always several on tap and another 300 in bottles. Good for preclubbing.
Pubs are Cork’s best asset but, if you hanker after a cocktail, there’s a booming bar scene, too:
Chambers ( 021-422 2860; Washington St; late Thu-Sun) A haberdasher swallowed a copy of Wallpaper, and Chambers was born.
Cornstore Click here The buzzy bistro’s bar is a swishy place for a cocktail.
Crane Lane Theatre (right) Their courtyard beer garden is a central Cork oasis.
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ENTERTAINMENT
For listings of Cork’s vibrant scene, pick up a copy of the free WhazOn? (www.whazon.com).
Theatre
Cork’s cultural life is as fine as any in Ireland and attracts numerous internationally renowned performers.
Cork Arts Theatre ( 021-450 5624; www.corkartstheatre.com; Camden Court, Carroll’s Quay) An excellent theatre putting on thought-provoking drama and new works.
Cork Opera House ( 021-427 0022; www.corkoperahouse.ie; Emmet Pl; box office 9am-8.30pm, to 5.30pm nonperformance nights) This leading venue has been entertaining the city for more than 150 years with everything from opera and ballet to stand-up and puppet shows. Performances are as varied as Carmen, Brian Kennedy and the drama Jane Eyre.
Everyman Palace Theatre ( 021-450 1673; www.everymanpalace.com; 15 MacCurtain St; box office 10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm nonperformance nights) Acclaimed musical and dramatic productions are the main bill of fare here, but there’s also the occasional band, comedy act, etc.
Firkin Crane ( 021-450 7487; www.firkincrane.ie; Shandon) One of Ireland’s premier centres for modern dance. Located in part of the old butter market Click here.
Granary ( 021-490 4275; www.granary.ie; Dyke Pde) Contemporary and experimental works are staged at the Granary by the University College Cork drama group and visiting companies.
Half Moon Theatre ( 021-427 0022; www.halfmoontheatre.ie; Emmet Place) One of Cork’s best venues for live theatre, comedy and music. It’s at the back of the Cork Opera House.
Triskel Arts Centre ( 021-472 2022; www.triskelart.com; Tobin St; tickets around €15) Expect a varied program of live music, installation art, photography and theatre at this intimate venue. There’s also a great cafe (Cafe Antigua;).
Cinemas
Gate Multiplex ( 021-427 9595; North Main St) Multiscreen cinema showing mainstream films.
Kino Cinema ( 021-427 1571; www.kinocinema.net; Washington St) Shows art-house flicks.
Live Music
Cork overflows with tunes. As well as the pubs with music mentioned earlier Click here, the following places are either