Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [213]
St Multose is the patron saint of Kinsale, and the Church of Ireland church (St Multose Church; rectory 021-477 2220; Church St) is one of Ireland’s oldest, built around 1190 by the Normans on the site of a 6th-century church. Not much of the interior is original but the exterior is preserved beautifully. The graveyard has some interesting large family tombs, and several victims of the Lusitania sinking are also buried there. Inside, a flat stone carved with a round-handed figure was traditionally rubbed by fishermen’s wives to bring their husbands home safe from the sea.
CHARLES FORT
One of the best-preserved 17th-century star-shaped forts in Europe, Charles Fort ( 021-477 2263; adult/child €4/2; 10am-5pm; ) would be worth a visit for its spectacular views alone. But there’s much more here: ruins inside the vast site date from the 18th and 19th centuries and make for some fascinating wandering. Displays explain the typically tough lives led by the soldiers who served here and the comparatively comfortable lives of the officers. Built in the 1670s to guard Kinsale Harbour, the fort was in use until 1921, when much of it was destroyed as the British withdrew. The best way to get here is to walk – follow the signs on the lovely walk around the bay from Scilly to Summercove, 3km east of Kinsale.
Activities
For sailings to Charles Fort, James Cove and up the River Bandon, you can phone Kinsale Harbour Cruises ( 021-477 8946, 086 250 5456; www.kinsaleharbourcruises.com; adult/child €12.50/6). Departure times vary throughout the year and are weather dependent; check the website or with the tourist office for details. The boats leave from near Vista Wine Bar on Pier Rd towards the marina.
Whale of a Time ( 086 328 3250; www.whaleofatime.ie) offers coastal cruises and whale-watching trips from €35 per person for 90 minutes on fast speedboats.
Kayak Kinsale’s beautiful harbour and the surrounding shores with H2O Sea Kayaking ( 021-477 8884; www.h2oseakayaking.com). Half-day tours start at €40.
For those interested in fishing, tackle can be hired at Mylie Murphy’s ( 021-477 2703; 14 Pearse St) for €10 per day. For those hooked on fishing trips, contact Kinsale Angling Co-op ( 021-477 4946; www.kinsale-angling.com).
Tours
Two outfits offer excellent walking tours of Kinsale; both leave from the tourist office.
Dermot Ryan’s Heritage Town Walks ( 021-477 2729; www.kinsaleheritage.com; adult/child €5/free; 10.30am & 4.30pm) Authoritative; lasts one hour.
Don & Barry’s Historic Stroll ( 021-477 2873; www.historicstrollkinsale.com; adult/child €7/1; 11.15am) Good natured; 90 minutes.
Festivals & Events
Gourmet Festival (www.kinsalerestaurants.com) Tastings, meals and harbour cruises in early October add to the town’s foodie reputation.
Kinsale Fringe Jazz Festival (www.kinsale.ie) Chilled-out entertainment over the late-October bank-holiday weekend.
Sleeping
There are many charming options.
BUDGET
Kinsale is geared towards the well heeled. There are good bus links to Cork city, so you might consider staying in one of the city’s hostels (Click here) and busing it to Kinsale.
Garrettstown House Holiday Park ( /fax 021-477 8156; www.garrettstownhouse.com; campsites €14; Apr–mid-Sep; ) This is the closest campsite to Kinsale, and is located in the grounds of an 18th-century estate. It’s near an excellent beach but can get rowdy with families in summer (maybe it’s the ‘Crazy Golf’ or the disco). The park is 1.3km southwest of Ballinspittle (11km southwest of Kinsale) on the R600.
Captains Quarters ( 021-477 4549; www.captains-kinsale.com; 55 Dennis Quay; r €50-100) You’ll feel like an admiral at this good-value B&B near the centre and slightly up the hill from the harbour. The six rooms have a certain 1970s charm and are decorated with prints of old sailing ships, many with poop decks.
MIDRANGE
Danabel ( 021-477 4087; www.danabel.com; Sleaveen; s/d from €60/80; ) Just off Featherbed Lane (we’re not making