Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [214]
Cloisters B&B ( 021-470 0680; www.cloisterskinsale.com; Friars St; s €70, d €80-110) Little touches make the difference at this delightful B&B near Desmond Castle. Inside the vermilion walls, chocolates await your arrival, and the orthopaedic mattresses are so comfy that only the creative breakfasts will tempt you out of bed. It’s right across from St John the Baptist Church.
White House ( 021-477 2125; www.whitehouse-kinsale.com; Pearse St; r €75-180; ) A classic pub on the outside, a stylish inn on the inside. The White House may not make you feel presidential, but at least you’ll feel like a cabinet secretary. The 10 rooms have warm shades of creams and browns and large, firm beds.
Chart House ( 021-477 4568; www.charthouse-kinsale.com; 6 Dennis Quay; s €80-130, d €120-170; ) There’s a relaxed elegance about this Georgian town house; the four rooms have period pieces but not the fussiness that often accompanies them. The large dining room is so nice for breakfast you might want to stay for lunch.
Old Presbytery ( 021-477 2027; www.oldpres.com; Cork St; s €90, d €90-170; closed Jan–mid-Feb; ) The Old Presbytery has gracefully moved into the 21st century with a careful refurbishment that maintains its character without pushing it into the ‘batty old dowager’ category. The timeless pine furniture contrasts with the refitted bathrooms. Stay in room 6 only if you have plans to see nothing of Kinsale: with its sunroom and balcony, you’ll never want to leave. The breakfasts, cooked by landlord and former chef Phillip, are the stuff of legend.
Pier House ( 021-477 4475; www.pierhousekinsale.com; Pier Rd; r €120-140; ) This superb guesthouse, set back from the road in a sheltered garden, is a lovely place to rest your head. Pristine rooms, decorated with shell-and-driftwood sculptures, have black-granite bathrooms with power showers and underfloor heating. Four of the rooms also have balconies and views of the milling mobs outside.
Other recommendations:
Gallery B&B ( 021-477 4558; www.gallerybnb.com; The Glen; r €60-120) Musical instruments dominate the common rooms of this self-described ‘funky’ B&B with genial owners.
Jim Edwards ( 021-477 2541; www.jimedwardskinsale.com; Short Quay; r €60-100) These seven basic rooms couldn’t be more central, at one of the town’s best restaurants (see opposite).
TOP END
Old Bank House ( 021-477 4075; www.oldbankhousekinsale.com; 11 Pearse St; r €120-220; ) Georgian elegance and style give a timeless quality to this top-of-the-range 18-room hotel. Beautiful objets d’art and paintings grace the walls, and the luxurious public rooms add a country-house ambience. Although room decor is lavish, it manages to avoid pretension through subtle whimsy. Breakfasts, with homemade breads and jams, are superb.
Perryville House ( 021-477 2731; www.perryvillehouse.com; Long Quay; r €130-250; ) It’s top-to-bottom grandeur at family-run Perryville, whether you’re pulling up outside its imposing wrought-iron-clad facade or taking afternoon tea in the drawing room. All the 26 rooms exude comfort; move up the rate card and the beds go from queen to king, while balconies and sea views appear. Bathrooms are huge. Eggs at breakfast are laid by a staff member’s chickens.
Also recommended:
Blue Haven Hotel & Restaurant ( 021-477 2209; www.bluehavenkinsale.com; 3 Pearse St; €140-230; ) Boutique hotel with 17 posh rooms and good public spaces and bar. Has the same owners as Old Bank House.
Eating
Kinsale fully deserves its billing as a foodie haven and you can eat wonderfully on every budget. Its busy fishing fleet provides a steady supply of seafood, which the local restaurants have a particularly good reputation for preparing. There’s a weekly farmers market (Short Quay; 9.30am-1.30pm Tue) in front of Jim Edwards’ restaurant. Lower O’Connell St is worth a stroll as new restaurants have been appearing there.
RESTAURANTS
Budget