Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [215]
Cucina ( 021-470 0707; www.cucina.ie; 9 Market St; meals €4-14; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, last orders 4pm) Laid-back jazz sets the mood at this modern little cafe. Healthy bruschetta, salads and soups, and not-so-healthy but very delicious cup cakes are served in a simple setting.
Vista Wine Bar ( 021-470 6866; Shearwater, Pier Rd; lunch €5-15, tapas €5-9) This shiny modern bar has spectacular views over the marina, and diners can enjoy the rhythmic clank, clank, clank of rigging banging on boats. Come for quiches and the baking at lunch, tapas in the evening (from 6pm) and wine and coffee any time of day.
Spaniard Bar & Restaurant ( 021-477 2436; www.thespaniard.ie; Scilly; bar meals €6-18; restaurant mains €18-24) This is a classic pub on Scilly, with low ceilings and a peat fire, so why not crack open some crab claws or settle for a sandwich at the bar. Prices for most dishes at the bar are around €10; there’s a pricier restaurant upstairs. Click here for more details on the pub.
Fishy Fishy Shop ( 021-477 4453; Guardwell; meals €8-15; noon-9pm Apr-Oct) The casual retail outlet for the vaunted restaurant (below), you can pause here on your Kinsale ramble for just a superb coffee but, really, you’ll want some of the best fish and chips in town, or one of the other treats. Tables are located both inside and out.
Dino’s ( 021-477 4561; Pier Rd; mains €9-12; 8am-10.30pm) People happily spill out over the surrounding sidewalks at this nautically themed chippy and family restaurant. Besides fish and chips, Dino’s does breakfasts (€7). Plop down on the low wall and enjoy marina views.
Midrange
Jim Edwards ( 021-477 2541; www.jimedwardskinsale.com; Market Quay; bar meals €7-20, restaurant meals €15-30; bar 12.30-10pm, restaurant 6-10pm) Like many places in Kinsale, this much-frequented eatery has bar food of a high standard. The restaurant has a traditional vibe that is thoroughly calming. Steaks feature but – as always in this area – the seafood shines. Service couldn’t be more sparkly.
E Kirby 66 ( 021-470 0488; 66 Lower O’Connell St; mains €11-17; noon-9pm) An old neighbourhood pub has been reborn and has a welcoming dinner menu of Italian classics. It’s great for when you want to say no to mussels and say yes to spaghetti and meatballs. There’s excellent pizza and, in a nod to local tradition, fine seafood ravioli. By day this charmer is good for a coffee and a pause along the gentrifying street.
Fishy Fishy Cafe ( 021-470 0415; www.fishyfishy.ie; Crowley’s Quay; mains €13-33; noon-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-4.30pm Sat & Sun) Fishy Fishy is a superb place for fish. The setting is beautifully understated, with stark white walls splashed with bright artwork and a terrific decked terrace at the front. All the fish is caught locally; have the cold seafood platter, a tasty spectacle that’s a concert of what’s fresh. Scallops are dollops of goodness. Front-of-house staff are charmers, but waitstaff can look as tired as week-old haddock.
Bulman ( 021-477 2131; www.thebulman.com; Summercove; mains €16-21; 12.30-9.30pm) This is seaside eating at its best. Escape from central Kinsale to this gastro pub in an unspoilt harbourside venue, where salty informality is a style in its own right. Seafood excels here, whether swimming in chowder or laid out seductively on a platter. Much of everything is sourced locally; herbs are right from the kitchen garden.
Top End
Jola’s ( 021-477 3322; www.jolasrestaurant.com; 18-19 Lower O’Connell St; lunch €6-10, dinner €20-25; noon-3.30pm & 6pm-late, cafe open noon-late) With double-height ceilings, exposed brick walls and a stunning chandelier, Jola’s brings a dash of metropolitan style to Kinsale. The food is equally adept, confidently marrying Eastern European and Irish cuisine. The blini are our favourite, but nothing on the menu will disappoint you, from the veal with horseradish mash to the lamb shank with boczek (Polish pork belly).
Max’s Wine Bar ( 021-477 2443; 48 Main St; mains €20-28; noon-2pm & 6-10pm Tue-Sun, shorter hours in winter) Behind the brilliant red traditional wooden facade is a restaurant