Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [222]
The Abbeystrewery Cemetery is a 1km walk east of the centre, on the N71 to Schull, and holds the mass graves of 8000 to 10,000 local people who died during the Famine.
A beautiful and disused old railway bridge crosses the river near Ilen St. A cattle market on Fridays at the showgrounds is a frenetic, smelly glimpse of rural life.
Sleeping
Bridge House ( 028-21273; monabestbridgehouse@yahoo.com; Bridge St; s/d €40/70) Mona Best has turned her entire house into a work of art, filling the rooms with fabulous Victorian tableaux and period memorabilia. The whole place bursts at the seams with cherished clutter, crazed carvings, dressed-up dummies and fragrant fresh flowers. Guests can request black satin sheets.
Ilenroy House ( 028-22751; ilenroyhouse@oceanfree.net; North St; s/d €50/70) Right in the centre of town, the Ilenroy offers modest B&B accommodation. It’s nothing fancy, but the price is right.
West Cork Hotel ( 028-21277; www.westcorkhotel.com; Ilen St; r €60-150) This stolid veteran has 30 comfortable and recently redone rooms next to the river and old railway bridge. The bar is a good retreat; rooms at the back have pastoral views.
Eating
There’s a county market ( 12.30-2.30pm) every Friday and a farmers market ( 10am-1.30pm) every Saturday on Old Market Sq. If you’re in town in mid-September, don’t miss the Taste of West Cork Food Festival (www.atasteofwestcork.com), with a lively market and events at local restaurants.
Kalbo’s Bistro ( 028-21515; 26 North St; breakfast & lunch €4-11, dinner €17-30; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 5.30-9.30pm Sun Jul-Aug) This local favourite recently downsized to give the owners a slight break for their well-deserved popularity. But the simply prepared classic meals continue. Locally sourced produce and a deft hand in the kitchen mean that pancakes in the morning and bacon sandwiches at lunch are tops. Dinners are creative.
Over the Moon ( 028-22100; 46 Bridge St; lunch €8-14, dinner mains €25; noon-2pm & 6-9pm Wed-Mon, closed Sun lunch) The classic deep-blue and white exterior plus the beguiling logo make you want to walk inside; you should. Locally sourced foods (purveyors are listed) star on a creative and changing menu of fresh fare. Local ham, cheese and seafood star.
Getting There & Away
Bus Éireann ( 021-450 8188; www.buseireann.ie) runs buses to Cork nine times daily Monday to Saturday, and five on Sunday (€15, 1¾ hours); and to Schull eight times daily Monday to Saturday and six times Sunday (€6, 30 minutes) from outside the former Eldon Hotel on Main St.
Return to beginning of chapter
BALTIMORE
pop 400
Picturesque Baltimore has its sailing hat wedged at a jaunty angle and a merry whistle on its lips. Sitting on the broad terrace at the centre of town and watching the boats, boats, boats everywhere with a pint of stout in your hand is indulgently somnolent.
Besides idlers, Baltimore attracts sailing folk, anglers, divers and visitors to Sherkin and Clear Islands, meaning that the population hits force 10 during summer months.
Information
There’s an information board at the harbour, or check out www.baltimore.ie. The nearest ATM is in Skibbereen. There’s internet access (€3.50 per hour) at Casey’s hotel.
Sights
The pretty harbour is dominated by the remains of the Dun na Sead (Fort of the Jewels; 028-20735; adult/child €3/free; 11am-6pm Jun-Sep). Inside are seasonal art displays, but the best way to appreciate this 13th-century survivor is from a distance.
Activities
There’s some excellent diving to be had on the reefs around Fastnet Rock; the waters are warmed by the Gulf Stream and a number of shipwrecks lie nearby. Aquaventures Dive Centre ( 028-20511; www.aquaventures.ie; Stonehouse B&B, Lifeboat Rd) charges €65 for a full day’s diving, and also offers diving and accommodation packages in the attached B&B; contact the centre for prices.
Baltimore Sailing School ( 028-20141; www.baltimoresailingschool.com) provides courses (five days for €340) from May to September for beginners and advanced sailors.
For a shorter taste of