Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [223]
Information about other diving, sailing and angling operators is posted by the harbour.
A white-painted landmark beacon (aka Lot’s Wife) stands on the western headland of the peninsula and makes for a pleasant walk, especially at sunset.
Ten kilometres from Baltimore, on the R585 towards Skibbereen, there’s good walking around Lough Hyne and the Knockamagh Wood Nature Reserve. Well-marked trails lead round the lake and up a steep hill through the forest. You’re rewarded with stunning views at the top.
Festivals & Events
The town goes nuts in May.
Fiddle Fair (www.fiddlefair.com) The second weekend of May, with sessions from international and local musicians.
Seafood Festival (www.baltimore.ie) Over the last full weekend of May, jazz bands perform and pubs bring out the mussels and prawns; wooden boats parade.
Walking Festival (www.westcork.ie) Guided walks of Balitmore and the region in mid-May.
Sleeping
Top of the Hill Hostel ( 028-20094; www.topofthehillhostel.ie; dm/d €15/44) Everything, from the exterior to the duvets, is white at this beautiful hostel, which is exactly where you’d think but still close to the centre. Sleep securely on sturdy steel bunks. The (white) communal areas consist of a lounge, dining room and kitchen, and there’s a lovely garden to the side.
Rolf’s Country House ( 028-20289; www.rolfsholidays.eu; Baltimore Hill; s €50-60, d €80-100; ) Upmarket Rolf’s, in a much-restored old farmhouse in restful gardens on the outskirts of town, does the lot: there are 14 excellent-value, smartly decorated private rooms, self-catering cottages (from €500 per week), helpful staff and a charming restaurant.
Fastnet House ( 028-20515; fastnethouse@eircom.net; Main St; s/d from €50/90) This early 19th-century house, up from the main harbour, is another good option. Stone steps lead up to uncluttered rooms with big windows. Window boxes add colour to the vintage stuccoed facade.
Waterfront ( 028-20600; www.waterfronthotel.ie; r €60-120; ) Truly the heart of town, Youen Jacob and his family run what seems to be half the town – and run it well they do. This three-storey 13-room guesthouse has stylish, clean-lined rooms with huge bathrooms. Opt for one with a view: it’s intoxicating.
Casey’s of Baltimore ( 028-20197; www.caseysofbaltimore.com; Skibbereen Rd; s/d €110/182; ) Ten of the 14 bedrooms here have estuary views and spiffy rooms with huge beds. Eating is a delight as well (see below). The hotel is right at the entrance to town.
Eating
La Jolie Brise ( 028-20600; mains €12-20; 10am-10pm) Part of the Youen Jacob empire, this casual restaurant does excellent food. Enjoy meals (excellent thin-crust pizza and fish and chips) at the plethora of picnic tables on the square in front of the Waterfront guesthouse.
Casey’s of Baltimore ( 028-20197; lunches €4-10, mains €14-30; 12.30-3pm & 6.30-9pm, bar meals all day) At Casey’s your food comes with fantastic views, whether you call in for breakfast, sandwiches or a tasty dinner. Seafood includes mussels fresh from the hotel’s own shellfish farm in Roaringwater Bay and the hotel specialty, crab claws in garlic butter.
Glebe Gardens & Café ( 028-20232; www.glebegardens.com; meals €15-30; 10am-10pm Wed-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Apr-Oct) The beautiful gardens here are an attraction in themselves; lavender and herbs add fragrant aromas that waft over the tables inside and out. Food is simple and fresh, sourced from the gardens and a list of local purveyors.
Chez Youen ( 028-20136; The Quay; dinner from €30; 6-10pm, closed Nov & Feb) Where it all started and still excellent, terrific seafood is the rule in this Breton-inspired restaurant. The luscious shellfish platter, containing lobster, prawns, brown crab, velvet crab, shrimps and oysters, offers the chance to sample shellfish at its