Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [224]
Drinking
Bushe’s Bar ( 028-20125; www.bushesbar.com; The Quay) Seafaring paraphernalia literally drips from the ceiling at this genuinely character-filled old bar. The benches outside on the main square are the best spots in town for a sundowner and you can watch sailors get misty at the nautical views. Famous crab sandwiches are served at times.
Getting There & Away
There are four daily buses weekdays and three times over the weekend between Skibbereen and Baltimore (€3.50, 20 minutes).
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CLEAR ISLAND
pop 150
With its lonely inlets, pebbly beaches, gorse- and heather-covered cliffs, Clear Island (Oileán Chléire; Cape Clear Island) is an escapist’s heaven. But that’s just as well, as you’ll want time to appreciate this small, rugged Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area, the southernmost inhabited island in the country. It’s a place for quiet walks, hunting down standing stones and birdwatching. Soon you’ll catch the alternative, independent vibe of the place.
Facilities are few, but there are a couple of B&Bs, one shop and three pubs.
Orientation & Information
The island is 5km long and just over 1.5km wide at its broadest point. It narrows in the middle where an isthmus divides the northern and southern harbours. There’s a tourist information post ( 028-39100; 11am-1pm & 3-6pm May-Aug) beyond the pier, next to the coffee shop. There are various leaflets available. You’ll find toilets at the harbour.
The island’s website (www.oilean-chleire.ie) is useful, and has links to a surprising number of books written about the island.
Sights
The small heritage centre ( 028-39119; admission €3; 2.30-5pm Jun-Aug) has exhibits on the island’s history and culture, and fine views north across the water to Mizen Head.
The ruins of 14th-century Dunamore Castle, the stronghold of the O’Driscoll clan, can be seen perched on a rock on the northwestern side of the island (follow the track from the harbour). The great hall lives up to its name and is sometimes open for tours (€3) when visitors turn up.
Activities
BIRDWATCHING
Cape Clear is one of the top birdwatching spots in Ireland, particularly known for sea birds, including Manx shearwater, gannet, fulmar and kittiwake. Guillemot breed on the island, but other birds head to and fro on hunting trips from the rocky outposts of the western peninsulas. Tens of thousands of birds can pass hourly, especially in the early morning and at dusk. The best time of year for twitching here is October.
The white-fronted bird observatory is by the harbour (turn right at the end of the pier and it’s 100m along). It’s worth calling in to ask about any planned birdwatching trips. For details on courses, see opposite.
WALKING
There are marked trails all over the island, and B&Bs and the tourist information post can advise on other walks. For guided walks covering historical, archaeological or ecological aspects of the island, phone 028-39157 (during summer); for walks focused on literature and culture, phone 028-39190.
Courses
Once you’re this isolated, you might as well learn something.
Ionad Foghlama Chléire (Cape Clear Island Language Services; 028-39190; www.cleire.com) runs Irish-language programs for adults.
Besides running the bird observatory, BirdWatch Ireland (www.birdwatchireland.ie) runs birdwatching field courses to Cape Clear. Details are on the website and the group has a small house so birdwatchers can stay the night.
For everything you need to know about goat husbandry, contact Ed Harper at Chléire Goats ( 028-39126; www.oilean-chleire.ie/english/goats.htm), based at a farm west of the church. He makes ice cream and cottage cheese, available for tastings, and runs half-day (€35) to week-long courses on goat keeping.
Festivals
The Cape Clear Island International Storytelling Festival ( 028-39157; www.capeclearstorytelling.com; weekend ticket €65) brings hundreds of people to Clear Island for storytelling, workshops and walks, as summer wanes in early September.
Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation on the island is satisfyingly