Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [247]
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WALKING & CLIMBING
Climbing and walking opportunities abound around Killarney, including the four-hour circuit of Muckross Lake. The Killarney tourist office and local bookshops stock trekking guides and the map (Ordnance Survey Map Discovery Series No 78) for several mountains, including Carrantuohil (1039m), Ireland’s highest peak.
Ascending Macgillycuddy’s Reeks and their neighbours (Purple, Tomies and Shehy mountains, between the Gap of Dunloe and Lough Leane, and Torc and Mangerton mountains, southeast of Muckross Lake) should never be attempted without having the skills to use a map and compass. Weatherproof and waterproof footwear and clothing are essential at all times of the year. Seek advice locally before attempting mountain walks.
There are several ways up Carrantuohil. Some require reasonable hill-walking ability, others are serious scrambling or rock-climbing routes. Get a taste of the Reeks at close quarters by walking up Hag’s Glen, the beautiful approach valley that leads to the Callee and Gouragh lakes below the north face of Carrantuohil.
The best approach is from Cronin’s Yard ( 064-663 4963; www.croninsyard.com; Mealis), where there’s a tearoom, showers and toilets, a public telephone, and packed lunches available on request. It’s at the road’s end (OS ref 836873), reached from the N72 via Beaufort, west of Killarney. You may be asked to pay a small fee for using the car park. From there, the way lies alongside the Gaddagh River, which you need to ford in places; great care is required if it’s in flood. It’s just over 3km to the lakes.
The popular but hair-raising way to summit Carrantuohil from the lakes is via Devil’s Ladder, a gruelling trudge up a badly eroded gully path, southwest of the lakes. The ground is loose in places, and in wet conditions the way becomes muddy. This takes six hours return from Cronin’s Yard.
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TOURS
Guided two-hour national park walks ( 064-663 3471, 087 639 4362; www.killarneyguidedwalks.com; adult/child €9/5) leave at 11am daily from opposite St Mary’s Cathedral at the western end of New St. Tours meander through Knockreer gardens, then to spots where Charles de Gaulle holidayed, David Lean filmed Ryan’s Daughter and Brother Cudda slept for 200 years. Trips are available at other times on request.
Two companies offer customisable itineraries to see the Gap of Dunloe (€30 to €50):
O’Connor’s Tours ( 064-663 0200; www.gapofdunloetours.com; High St)
O’Donoghue Brothers Boating Tours ( 064-663 1068; www.killarneydaytour.com; Old Weir Lodge, Muckross Rd)
Glass-enclosed boats for the masses (adult/child €10/5) do one-hour lake circuits, usually from Ross Castle:
Destination Killarney ( 064-663 2638)
Killarney Watercoach Cruises ( 064-663 1068)
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WALK: REEKS RIDGE
Experienced walkers with confidence over steep ground could consider the longest and most sustained ridge walk in Ireland, a seven-hour, 13km trek with wide-ranging views. The demanding trek scales six 900m-plus peaks – including Knocknapeasta and Maolán Buí, Ireland’s fourth- and fifth-highest summits – with a total ascent of 1050m.
The exposed walk should be avoided in windy conditions. In poor weather, or when there is a chance of encountering snow and ice (much of the year), it is a serious undertaking. An ice axe, and perhaps other mountaineering equipment, should be carried; only those with winter mountaineering experience should attempt it.
From Cronin’s Yard (opposite), pass through a gate on the right of the yard. Skirt a field on a grass track, cross a stile and follow the stony track that climbs gently above the Gaddagh River. Leave the track where it crosses a tributary of the Gaddagh and head southeast across open ground, climbing the increasingly steep slopes towards the conspicuous summit of Cruach Mór (932m). Aim slightly east of the summit to find easier ground.