Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [248]
However, your attention is likely to be drawn by the rock ridge running south towards the Big Gun (939m). Huge blocks of rock (gendarmes) adorn the crest of the ridge, making it initially difficult to keep to the top. Follow informal paths below and to the west of the ridge, being careful not to lose too much height. Scramble back up to the ridge at a notch, then climb – carefully – directly along the exciting rocky arête to reach the Big Gun. The ridge now swings southwest towards Knocknapeasta. Stick to the crest as you descend to a col, but where the ridge becomes difficult again you can drop south (left) of the arête before rejoining it just beneath the summit of Knocknapeasta (988m; one hour from Cruach Mór).
The views from the highest point on the walk are tremendous, taking in Ireland’s three highest summits to the west and, to the east, the serrated ridge you have traversed. To the north, wild cliffs fall away into the dark waters of Lough Cummeenapeasta, with the patchwork fields of north Kerry beyond. Southward, the mountain falls away to Black Valley, and ridge after ridge of mountains extend towards the Atlantic.
Head south from Knocknapeasta along a broad, stony ridge, then bear southwest as you drop to a col and climb a short distance to the summit of Maolán Buí (973m). Cross an unnamed top at 926m to reach Cnoc an Chuillin (958m), the last major peak on the ridge. Now descend to a col and climb onto another unnamed summit. It is best to descend directly into Hags Glen from here, keeping to the west of steep ground, though some walkers brave Devil’s Ladder (opposite) further to the west. Once in Hags Glen, follow the stony track for 4km to the finish (one to 1½ hours).
An alternative route (eight to 10 hours, 15km, 1450m ascent) for very fit walkers extends the route west across Ireland’s two highest peaks – Carrauntuohil (1039m) and Beenkeragh (1010m) – before descending to Hags Glen.
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The open boats ( 087 689 9241) you can charter at Ross Castle offer more appealing trips with boatmen who define ‘character’. It costs €10 from Ross Castle to the Muckross (Middle) Lake and back; €15 for a tour of all three lakes.
A number of Killarney companies run daily day trips by bus around the Ring of Kerry (€27) and Dingle Peninsula (€27). Half-day tours (€17), taking in Aghadoe, Ross Castle, Muckross House and Torc Waterfall also operate, as do bike tours and lake cruises.
Operators include:
Corcoran’s ( 064-663 6666; 8 College St)
Dero’s Tours (Map; 064-663 1251; www.derostours.com; Main St)
O’Connor Autotours (Map; 064-663 4833; Ross Rd)
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KILLARNEY TO KENMARE
The vista-crazy N71 to Kenmare (32km) winds between rock and lake, with plenty of lay-bys to stop and admire the views. Watch out for the buses squeezing along the road. About 2km south of the entrance to Muckross House, a path leads 200m to the pretty Torc Waterfall. After another 8km on the N71 you come to Ladies’ View, where the fine views along Upper Lake were much enjoyed by Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting. There are cafes here and 5km further on at Moll’s Gap, another good viewpoint.
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RING OF KERRY
The second of Ireland’s big circle drives (number one Dingle, number three Beara), the Ring of Kerry is the longest and the most diverse. It combines jaw-dropping coastal scenery with more mundane stretches of land that’s simply emerald green and sort of blissful.
This 179km circuit of the Iveragh Peninsula pops up on tourist itineraries for a good reason. The road winds past pristine beaches, the island-dotted Atlantic, medieval ruins, mountains and loughs (lakes). Even locals stop their cars to gawk at the rugged coastline – particularly between Waterville and Caherdaniel in the southwest of the peninsula. And even in summer the remote Skellig Ring can be uncrowded and serene (starkly beautiful too).
And for many, the Ring is simply