Ireland (Lonely Planet, 9th Edition) - Fionn Davenport [251]
The best attraction locally is the ruins of Ballycarbery Castle, 2.4km along the road to White Strand Beach from the barracks. The 16th-century castle was inhabited by the McCarthy More chieftains and, later, Sir Valentine Brown, surveyor general of Ireland under Elizabeth I. Today the atmospheric remains are surrounded by green pastures inhabited by cows who like to get in the pictures.
Along the same road are two stone ring forts. Cahergall, the larger one, dates from the 10th century and has stairways on the inside walls, a clochan (beehive hut), and the remains of a house. The smaller, 9th-century Leacanabuile has the entrance to an underground passage. Their inner walls and chambers give a strong sense of what life was like in a ring fort. If driving, leave your car in the parking area next to a stone wall and walk up the footpaths.
Activities
Local walks include the 5½-hour Killelan Mountain circuit and the less strenuous foreshore walk to the castle and ring forts. Ask at the tourist office for info on local guided walks and boat rides.
Festivals
Celtic music is a major component of the Caherciveen Festival of Music & the Arts ( 066-947 3772; www.celticmusicfestival.com), which takes place over the bank holiday weekend at the beginning of August and features cover bands, busking competitions and set dancing.
Sleeping
Mannix Point Camping & Caravan Park ( 066-947 2806; www.campinginkerry.com; Mannix Point; campsites per person €10; Mar-Oct) Mortimer Moriarty’s award-winning coastal site has an inviting kitchen, a barbecue area and even a birdwatching platform.
Sive Hostel ( 066-947 2717; sivehostel.ie; 15 East End; dm/d €15/40) Simple and sweet, this IHH affiliate is a good walking base. The jaunty yellow exterior and pink sheets will put vim in your vigour.
O’Shea’s B&B ( 066-947 2402; www.osheasbnb.com; Church St; s/d €45/70) Four rooms (with private bathrooms) in a comfortable family house with views of the castle and barracks. A good source of local information, the O’Sheas organise walking and boat trips.
Eating & Drinking
Trad sessions are held in An Bonnán Buí, the Anchor and among the fishing tackle in Mike Murts.
Helen’s Coffee Shop ( 066-947 2056; Main St; snacks €4-6) A perfect stop: Helen’s can restore you with a range of coffees, tasty soups and sandwiches, homemade cakes and candy. Yeah!
Fertha ( 066-947 2023; 20 Main St; bar food €7-12) A classic Guinness sign hanging out front sets the tone for this classic old pub, which offers a range of hearty dishes including roasts.
QCs ( 066-947 2244; 3 Main St; mains lunch €5-10, dinner €17-25; kitchen noon-2pm & 6-9.30pm) A sure sign that Caherciveen is about to turn a corner, QCs is a modern take on a classic pub and as such is open usual pub hours for pints and craic. But when the kitchen’s open, some of the finest food on the Ring pours forth (locally sourced seafood, meats etc). Hours are short in winter, but in summer you’ll need to book; the word is out.
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VALENTIA ISLAND
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Crowned by Geokaun Mountain, 11km-long Valentia Island (Oileán Dairbhre) is an altogether homier isle than the brooding Skelligs to the southwest. Like the Skellig Ring it leads to, Valentia’s an essential, coach-free detour from the Ring of Kerry. Some lonely ruins are worth exploring. Knightstown, the only town, has a good pub.
Valentia was chosen as the site for the first transatlantic telegraph cable. When the connection was made in 1858, it put Caherciveen in direct contact with New York, although without connection with Dublin. The link worked for 27 days before failing, but went back into action years later. The telegraph station operated until 1966.
The island makes for an ideal driving loop. There’s a frequent, quick ferry trip at one end and a bridge to Portmagee (right) on the mainland at the other end.
Sights & Activities
Immediately across the bridge from Portmagee is an interesting building with turf-covered barrel roofs. The Skellig Experience ( 066-947 6306; www.skelligexperience.com; adult/child